Derek Lam's Spring 2009 collection offered a thoroughly modern take on American sportswear--and was one of Fashion Week's standout shows.

The 30s-via-80s silhouettes included floaty skirts and relaxed yet strong-shouldered suits. )Think Faye Dunaway in "Bonnie and Clyde" meets Jerry Hall.) Jackets and dresses featured sprinkles of sequins and metallics. And while a neutral palette dominated--Lam described the shades as "pumice, stone and terra cotta"--pops of bright citrus shades made their way down the catwalk, too.

Lam has been one of fashion's rising stars since launching his self-titled line in 2003. But in our minds, this collection cemented his status as one of America's freshest young designers.