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Despite Wars, Current Fashion Doesn't Make a Political Statement

by Kristen Seymour (Subscribe to Kristen Seymour's posts)
Posted Jul 30th 2009 at 5:25PM  
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model in military jacket

Military-inspired fashion at Yanuk's Fall 2006 show. Photo: Frazer Harrison, Getty Images

Historically, major political events (particularly wars) have had a huge impact on fashion. But, according to AP Fashion Writer Samantha Critchell, the current wars in Iraq and Afghanistan are not affecting fashion trends very much, if at all.

Fashion historian Kathleen Campbell says that the recent wars "have not been impactful" in the ways that previous wars have been. For example, during World War I, trench coats gained popularity, as did shorter skirts.

While, World War II had an even greater effect, as manufacturers began to use different fabrics and leaner silhouettes due to the rationing of materials. Vietnam brought about the ironic popularity of Army green and fatigues.

Currently, we might see a few more desert and sand camouflage prints, but it's not an overwhelming aspect of design.

And while there has been a resurgence of interest in buying from American designers, Andrew Bolton, curator at The Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute in New York City, explains that it's more about economics than politics: "The recession has affected fashion, and the recession is allied to the war in some respects."

Even Tommy Hilfiger, who is nothing if not all-American, has kept the patriotism in his recent collections remarkably low-key, in large part because he's catering to an overseas clientele. The designer says he anticipates the return of Americana, "but it will be in a different way."

Hilfiger goes on to say that when he began designing in 1969, the fashion was all about rebelling against the establishment. "Now," he says, "fashion is not as much a political statement, it's just a fashion statement."
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Filed under: News
Tags: American, americana, Costume-Institute, military, military-fashion, political-statement, Tommy-HIlfiger, war, war-fashion
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