Clamdiggers: A Brief History

CREAM OF THE CROPPED
Clamdiggers, Capri pants, pedal pushers – whatever you call them, they've been a staple of the American wardrobe since Doris Day (seen here) swooned over Rock Hudson and teenagers rebelled by staging beachfront surf-offs.

But the ankle-skimmers are also devilishly difficult to wear with Marilyn Monroe-level panache.

Here's how to rock them like bombshell once did.

Clamdiggers: A Brief History

A SHORT HISTORY
Credit for first cropping women's pants as a fashion statement goes to a now-forgotten European designer, Sonja de Lennart. She slashed lengths and flashed ankles in her so-called Capri collection in 1948.

The entire raft of designs was a riff on La Dolce Vita's ground zero, the Italian island of Capri, and its sexy, carefree vibe.

No wonder then that it was American screen goddesses like Marilyn who brought the style stateside. "Marilyn Monroe – the shot of her in that look is probably the most enduring image of the American blonde," says fashion and accessories designer Matt Murphy.

Clamdiggers: A Brief History

WHEN CROPS EQUALED CLASS
Once Marilyn had imported the look, it became a staple of TV and movie starlets in the 1950s.
Mary Tyler Moore wore Capri pants on "The Dick Van Dyke Show'" and Doris Day wore them all the time. "They were for a certain type of lady," says celebrity stylist Ellianna Placas.

Perky, peppy and wholesomely beautiful women with a whiff of European class were clamdiggers' core audience – just like Audrey Hepburn, who sported Givenchy-designed clamdiggers in "Roman Holiday."

"It wasn't risqué to wear pants – it was a symbol of youthfulness," says Murphy.

Clamdiggers: A Brief History

CROPPED CATEGORIES
Technically, Murphy cautions, clamdiggers aren't a single style – they're actually an umbrella term for three different kinds of cropped pant.

Pedal pushers have a more voluminous, generous cut and usually end just below the knee – think vintage sirens like Sophia Loren or Beyoncé now.

Capri pants are tighter cut, often with stretch and without pockets for a sleek line. "Think Olivia Newton John in 'Grease' – that was a 50s classic, albeit modified and sexed up for the film," Murphy says. (At left Robin Roberts of "Good Morning America" sports a modern body-skimming suit version in June.)

Clamdiggers are cut like khakis, but skim above the ankle. The very name is a nod to their pre-catwalk origins. "Clamdiggers were originally intended as work garments, worn by the salt paludiers in the marshes of France, and so you needed mobility of action."

Clamdiggers: A Brief History

MRS O. APPROVES
Whether work-wear or wowing the Capri jetset, there were simple reasons cropped pants became wardrobe mainstays. "Pretty much everyone has decent ankles," Murphy explains. "And it's a safe part of the body that's socially acceptable to reveal and not as risqué as a short."

No wonder icon-in-the-making Michelle Obama has relied so often on the all-American style – it's sexy but safe and has strategically Kennedy-esque connotations, too. "It's a very Nantucket, WASPY aesthetic."

Clamdiggers: A Brief History

GO FOR THE CLASSIC LOOK
As Michelle O. already knows, the best way to wear cropped pants is to make like Jackie O. like this Manhattanite. "It's about dressing properly and how can you do it in a retro way," advises Placas. "She is very pulled-together and the striped top balances them beautifully."

Murphy agrees: the coordinated neutral palette a throwback look without being costume-y. "The matching pant and sweater over a horizontal stripe looks polished and flattering." The fit is crucial, too: these are tailored but roomy, like a classic khaki.

Clamdiggers: A Brief History

DAY TRIPPERS
Clamdiggers can be more than daywear, too – as long as they're worn the right way. This woman could segue from day to night by swapping her bag for a dressier clutch or a hobo. "You could dress a pair up quite nicely with a great heel and a silk blouse," Murphy notes.

Also acceptable? A trendy flat like these gladiator-inflected sandals. Placas, ever the stylist, recommends that, "anyone under 5'8" should stick with a heel – no mules, though!"

A hint of volume is crucial too – always balance tight-fitting bottoms like a classic clamdigger with a slouchier top.

Clamdiggers: A Brief History

WHITE OUT
Teens and twentysomethings might be able to rock a white pair, but for everyone else – think: real-sized adults – it's best to ditch the tighty whities. "If you've got hips and you want to wear a mid-calf pant with a tight top - make sure the pant is darker then the top," Murphy counsels. "It emphasizes the silhouette more sleekly."

"Your figure can tend to have bulges and other unsighties occurring," agrees Placas. She says that if you want to wear light-colored pants, buy a pair of loose-fitting linen drawstrings instead. "If you don't have long legs or slender thighs, they're much better at playing up your small waist or great bust."

Clamdiggers: A Brief History

ADD SOME COLOR IN THE FORM OF A CUTE CARDI
"Clamdiggers look great if it's a really stylized look – there has to be an element of being buttoned up, you can't be sloppy," cautions Placas.

For that reason, a twinset or a shell and cardigan combo is a smart staple. "It's a uniform for many women for a reason: it's easy and more useful than a full pant and the sweater adds volume to the top creating a more slimming silhouette," agrees Murphy.

Just make sure that the top is dressy and slightly retro with a whiff of candy-colored Doris Day.

Clamdiggers: A Brief History

JUST FOR (WO)MEN
The most important rule is saved for last: whatever the weather or the trends imply, never let your husband opt for a cropped pant.

"Is he doing the walk of shame in his friend's clothes?" jokes Placas.

Unless he's a salt farmer in Brittany, leave the ankle-baring to Marilyn, Doris, and the rest of the ladies.

Clamdiggers: A Brief History