DESIGNER: Ruffian

INSPIRATION: The Picasso exhibit, "Mosquteros," at the Gagosian Gallery

TOP LOOKS: Olive green linen trench over lamé slip, a trim black skirt suit with ruffle-sleeve bolero, hand-drawn and hand-embroidered "Picasso" dress which closed the show

ACCESSORIES: Louboutin did the shoes, per usual. The sandals were strappy and edged in black (as are Picasso's Mosqueteros) and have pink suede platforms (to match the pink carpeted catwalk).

Collaborating on jewelry a second season, designer Hervé Van der Straeten created necklaces using raw stones in the icy blues and pale pastels of the collection. The boys threw in an paillette-encrusted sailor hat based on Picasso's drawings -- which, if reshaped slightly, would make for a highly covetable clutch.

WHO WAS THERE: The usual coterie of friends and socialites... Ally Hilfiger, Annie Churchill, Antonia Thompson, Douglas Friedman and Derek Blasberg

WHAT WE THOUGHT: The erudite Ruffians exist in many time periods and their references are profuse and varied. Picasso-as-muse tipped Claude Morais' (one half of the the design duo) artistic hand. And the designer created a risqué silk line-drawn print of his chest, which ended up on skirts and separates.

This graphic naughtiness provided a punk-rock counter point to Spring/Summer 2010, which tended toward the lady-like side of the Ruffian girl -- especially in shapes with defined waists.