isaac mizrah runway

Glitz and glamour ruled Mizrahi's runway. Photo: Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

Designer: Isaac Mizrahi

Inspiration: Fred Astaire, Anime, and "The Obstacle Course to Glamour"

Top Looks: The show was front loaded with divine day wear in the form of swishy skirted easy silk dresses, belted peak-lapel jackets and other sharply tailored separates in pale crocus colors. For a minute, it went in a "Valley of the Dolls" direction, with a psychedelic beaded paisley-print that showed up in shift dress on Vlada and high-waisted shorts.

Last came glorious evening wear. A sparkly-like-diamonds double-breasted loose fitting vest dress. A pink sparkle fitted sheath. A black strapless sparkle jumpsuit fit for Liza Minelli (there is always a touch of cabaret at Isaac). A white jacket ruffled on one lapel. And movie-star gowns in tulle and silk -- ruffled, poufed and hourglassed.

Accessories: Maximal earrings of the button and dangly spangly variety. Isaac enlisted the jewelry designers from Liz Claiborne (where he serves as Creative Director) to do jewelry for his namesake collection. The effort was fantastic. Krystle Carrington all the way.

The shoes definitely played a supporting role, bearing a stylistic resemblance sexy orthopedics, with belt like straps and even a little gold padlock. If the medical reference was subtle in the footwear, Mizrahi took it all the way with the molded plexi arm braces, that strapped on from finger to shoulder. It was very Helmut Newton -- but there really is a medical accessory trend going on out there.

Bags were numerous, which is unusual for Isaac. They were made of tan and black leather, and took the form of large chic shoulder bags (worn with gowns) or small structured hard cases, which looked like they held piccolos.

Who was there: Joy Bryant, Kathy Griffin, Iris Apfel, Lauren Dupont

What we thought:
The so called "Astaire Case" set was perplexing (a literal stair case, raised platform, and oversized, cartoonish spotlights). And then there was the live jazz trio, The Bad Plus. Isaac loves theater, and as mentioned above, cabaret -- piano player, check.

Now cue drama! Karlie Kloss prances out, musical comedy-style, in a flat brimmed hat made of cardboard and a handkerchief hemmed dress -- and crosses the obstacle course-like stage. It starts raining in the middle of the runway, and a guy in black coveralls and a headset pops open an umbrella and escorts a few models through the shower.

There was so much going on, one had to force oneself to focus on the looks, which also had a lot going on. Like a lot. "Dynasty"-like proportions -- peaked shoulders, voluminously shaped fabric, massive jewelry -- but all done with a minimalist's palette. This restraint kept any kitsch at bay. And the whole affair was stunning. I was more than entertained; I loved every minute.

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Isaac Mizrahi - Spring 2010
Isaac Mizrahi, Spring 2010
Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

Isaac Mizrahi - Spring 2010

    Isaac Mizrahi - Spring 2010

    Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

    Isaac Mizrahi - Spring 2010

    Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

    Isaac Mizrahi - Spring 2010

    Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

    Isaac Mizrahi - Spring 2010

    Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

    Isaac Mizrahi - Spring 2010

    Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

    Isaac Mizrahi - Spring 2010

    Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

    Isaac Mizrahi - Spring 2010

    Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

    Isaac Mizrahi - Spring 2010

    Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

    Isaac Mizrahi - Spring 2010

    Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

    Isaac Mizrahi - Spring 2010

    Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG