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Olivier Theyskens Sketches Away, Ignores 'the Net'

by Bee-Shyuan Chang (Subscribe to Bee-Shyuan Chang's posts)
Posted Jan 28th 2010 at 7:31PM  
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olivier theyskens

Even without a fashion line, Olivier Theyskens is still designing. Photo: Getty Images for NARS

By nature, the fashion business is a dog-eat-dog (albeit well-groomed) industry. So, when times are tough, even talented designers go unemployed.

Take Olivier Theyskens, for instance. Since being let go as head designer at Nina Ricci, he's been on the prowl for the next big gig.

However, in the meantime, the designer's been keeping busy with a new fashion book with photographer Julien Claessens. The tome, published by Assouline, is provocatively titled "The Other Side of the Picture."

Rather than a tell-all rant on his former employers, as the name suggests, Theyskens tells StyleList, "I love books about fashion and I love books about art.

"The book contains the sums of works that is from 15 years of collaboration between Julien Claessens and me ... and it's from the backstage of shows," the designer elaborated.

Job-hunting, though, is still looming large. According to the Wall Street Journal, Olivier is keeping things upbeat and sketching along the way.

"As Mr. Theyskens searches for a new label, he says he has been creating imaginary collections in his notebooks. Three or four are completely ready to go -- down to the chosen fabrics, plans, 'everything,'" reports the paper.

There's always the option of creating his own line, but the doe-eyed designer only commented, "Oh God. ... That's for sure, I have always thought [about] it."

Considering that his track record with big fashion houses hasn't exactly been lustrous -- he was let go from Rochas and then Nina Ricci - could it be it's Theyskens who has been too dreamy?

Tender Birmingham boutique owner, Karen Daskas, wasn't too thrilled with the designer's fit. "He cut for somebody that was tall and very thin. It didn't fit women who could afford clothes of that caliber," she told WSJ.

Despite marking the collection down by 60%, the pieces in the Detroit-area store still didn't budge. "I can't give it away," she said. "And we try it on everybody."

Theyskens is quick to defend himself and says the questions over fit were totally false. He argues that it was the production department that had control over fit.

Fit or not, one thing's for sure: the designer needs a bit of updating. On the role of the Internet in the fashion industry, Theyskens was plainly in the clouds.

"Actually, I was thinking, oh, you should see on the Net what was going on," he told the paper. "But I didn't. It makes me think that normal people - 99% of the people - don't run to the Net to see what's happening [on the runways]."

While many think Theyskens is a creative genius, others will certainly find his views on the Internet far from in-the-know. And just wait till he hears about Twiitter.

Almost all major fashion brands and designers have embraced "the Net," and then some, just check out Burberry's new social media initiative.
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Filed under: Fashion, News, Designers & Brands
Tags: Assouline, books, designers, Julien Claessens, Nina Ricci, Olivier Theyskens, Wall Street Journal
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  • Olivier Theyskens Mixes The Old With The New For Fall 2012 Olivier Theyskens Mixes The Old With The New For Fall 2012 Play Olivier Theyskens delivered loads of leather, sparkly boucle jackets, and all things cool for Theyskens' Theory's Fall 2012 collection. The designer told us the inspiration for his retro meets modern designs, and revealed that he doesn't get nervous before a big show! Watch our entire interview with the master of downtown cool right here. On Allison McNamara: H&M blouse.
  • Theyskens' Theory Runway Spring 2012 - NYFW Theyskens' Theory Runway Spring 2012 - NYFW Play Designer Olivier Theyskens definitely did not disappoint for Spring 2012, delivering luxe boucle jackets, iridescent pants, and mega-platform heels. From a loose knit sweater and turquoise jeans, to the most delicate organza gowns, Theyskens' Theory teeters between the edgy and the ultra feminine perfectly. Take a look at the entire collection, and be sure to check out our full review.
  • Backstage at Theyskens' Theory Fall 2012 Show Backstage at Theyskens' Theory Fall 2012 Show Play Theyskens' Theory is known for cool, downtown looks, and the Fall 2012 collection is rather inspired: by Grandma! Effortless hair floated down the runway thanks to a neat hair trick, and the makeup palette included warm bronze shades, taken from someone Granny might look at for beauty inspiration: the late Italian designer Elsa Schiaparelli.
  • Olivier Theyskens on His Cool-Girl Collection for Theory at NYFW Olivier Theyskens on His Cool-Girl Collection for Theory at NYFW Play Whether you're looking for trendsetting streetwear, office attire, or the perfect evening gown, Theyskens's Spring 2012 Theory collection has you covered. We got a chance to talk to the French designer after the show, where he told us about his cool-girl inspired looks and the key to dressing for your body type. From standout, iridescent pants to a slew of covetable jackets, this is one collection you don't want to miss - so be sure to see the entire show here.
 
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