Photo: Fernanda Calfat, Getty Images

Marc Jacobs

INSPIRATION: Dorothy in "The Wizard of Oz" was the starting point for a collection that was at once demure and a bit haughty

Coats lined in fur; a refined plaid three-piece suit; cardigans and sweater dresses shimmering with sequins; a wool dress trimmed with mohair; lightweight dress featuring trompe l'oeil bows; a glamorous full-length silver sequin gown

All eyes were on the range of shoes: there were pointy-toed styles in ostrich; flat Mary Janes; leather ankle boots with disco-era stacked heels; tall lace-ups (fit for wicked witches of the west!) and all of them were worn with dainty socks. In addition to the medium-sized envelope clutches, there were also tan ostrich skin bags and oversized styles trimmed with fur.

As we previously reported, no celebs, just fashion folk

WHAT WE THOUGHT: There's always an element of surprise to the Marc Jacobs show. One never knows what to expect inside of the New York State Armory on Lexington Avenue -- only that the set will be spectacular. There were no bells and whistles this season, cardboard was literally stapled to the walls. The centerpiece was a large scale box, covered in brown paper. When the clock struck 8, exactly, Jacobs and his business partner Robert Duffy pulled the wrapping off to reveal the show's 56 models standing inside.

The models walked out one-by-one to a romantic remix of "Over the Rainbow." The all gray opening looks (a popular shade so far this season) indicated that Jacobs wasn't going for his usual colorful hybrid mash-up, but intended to channel the menswear trend instead.

Initially serious, the mood shifted toward fantasy. It seemed almost as if a modern, professional woman was time traveling back to her childhood and her beloved games of dress-up as piece after piece became gradually more fanciful than the prior.

The gray series featured suits, flared skirts, culottes and a hybrid sweatshirt top. A number of looks featured mohair-lined suede. Coats -- many of them decadently trimmed in fur -- were a highlight of the show. The most playful ones were made of a sparkly see-through plastic and featured fuzzy oversized collars.

The line was long: there were three-quarter length skirts and flared dresses that cut mid-shin (which was tricky even for the models to pull off). Slim-fit trousers contrasted with flouncy, princess-like frocks, like the finale piece, a voluminous silk taffeta daisy print gown. A little girl's dream dress ended the outing on a sunny note.

Check out the hair and makeup details from the MJ show.