HAIR: Eugene Souleiman for Wella
BEAUTY SNAPSHOT: 90s Supermodel
THE SCOOP: Nothing short of over the top would do for hair and makeup at Jeremy Scott's Fall 2010 fashion show, where statement-making jeweled leather pieces lived up to the designer's reputation for extreme fashion.
"It's really obvious with Jeremy, you know," said stylist Eugene Souleiman, who crafted an intense "Blonde Ambition-meets-Thierry Mugler" updo on top of the girls' heads. "The whole show is about fashion and if you are going to talk about fashion it has to be about supermodels like Linda, Naomi, Christy." No small feat, the style took days of prep work for Soulemain's team, matching hair pieces to models' natural color, not to mention cutting and setting the extensions in advance.
"It's a lot of work," Souleiman told StyleList. "We kind of bound the hair pieces and tied a base, which wraps around with surgical bandage to support their hair, because it's a lot of hair and it can be quite painful." Painful indeed. This was one day when we did not have model-envy: We overheard at least one complaining of a headache from the tightly-bound style. To finish the look, Souleiman created rings of weft that he slipped on top of the knotted base, before tying hair in, pulling over and then finally, wrapping more strands around.
Overdrawn makeup was equally bold at the hands of lead artist Val Garland. "The inspiration is extreme fashion so the idea of the makeup is taken from the 1990s supermodel," she said. "The idea of an eyeliner to the max-playing with gel and liquid eyeliner and a carbon powder to make it intensely black-black-black, and a bit of sparkly powder on the inner eye to open up the shape." A dewy fresh finish instantly updated skin, while the lip was reinvented in a "dead-calm color that is kind of like the wrong side of beige," noted Garland.
GET THE LOOK - MAKEUP: All products by M.A.C. On eyes, Garland used Ebony Pencil, Blacktrack Fluidline set with Carbon Eye Shadow. She created a pencil-thin crease shape that connected in the outer corner of the top winged liner. A half-an-inch below the lashline, she applied the same combination of black eye products, completing a line that followed the shape of the eye and formed a small triangle. Garland then filled in the lid with Vanilla Small Shadow and White Pigment. #1 and #3 lashes were stacked on top of lashline. On lips, Garland used Stripdown Liner and Rev Folio Lipstick. On face, she contoured with Face and Body Cream and Sculpt and Shape Powders.
GET THE LOOK - HAIR: All products by Wella. Souleiman did not recommend trying this one at home but he used Wella Ultimation Hair Spray and Wella High Hair Gloss to create the dramatic look.