INSPIRATION: The Weiner Werkstatte via Park Avenue
TOP LOOKS: Persimmon double-face alpaca coat with orchid alpaca collar and ikat jacquard skirt; emerald embroidered broadtail dress, emerald lacquered tweed embroidered coat with black mink trim; lapis silk faille dress; white organza blouse with black stretch wool pant with sheer embroidered fans up the sides; ivory and gray floral print gown on Karen Elson, with matching fabric roses in her hair.
ACCESSORIES: Platform tasseled pumps in suede. Velvet and diamond open toe boots. Hard compact clutches. Fur pochettes with chain handles, fur berets in black and neon brights. Sparkly silver hosiery from Looks of London. And last but not at all least, dangly voluminous clip earrings with matching necklaces; stacked deco bangles and bib collars; diamond pins on hats and dresses.
WHO WAS THERE: Jessica Biel, Rachel Zoe with husband Roger and assistant/ TV star, Brad, photographer and stylist power teams, Craig McDean and Joe McKennae, and Patrick Demarchelier and Carine Roitfeld, Japanese Vogue's Anna Della Russo in a hot pink long shaggy fur, plus Oscar-girls Aerin Lauder and Lauren Dupont
WHAT WE THOUGHT: Oscar de la Renta's clientele is a wealthy one, and this season his muse seemed to be wealth itself. With "Bonfire of the Vanities" hair and make-up, sparkly party girl stockings, massive earring-and-necklace sets, and layer after layer of luxe fabric and fur--there was no respite from richesse.
The clothes no doubt were stunning. In their vaguely jazz-era finery, the models were like Gustav Klimt society muses: They wore day skirts and coats cut below the knee and trimmed with rich fur or flirty pleated chiffon flapper dresses with Joseph Hoffman-esque embroidery, and stoles over satin evening gowns. There was a feeling of Wienmar Germany in the mix, a time and place where decadence was an anecdote for political and economic uncertainty. Sounds familiar.