MAKEUP: Florrie White for MAC
HAIR: James Pecis for Bumble and Bumble
SNAPSHOT: Gypsies, junkies and Rajasthani Indian brides
THE SCOOP: Ed Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff of Meadham Kirchhoff are the duo behind one of London's most admired, of-the-moment labels. Known for their love of layering, this season they adorned their knits and outfits with tinsel petals, sequins, a multitude of cuff bracelets going up arms and stacks of rings - and the makeup and hair were similarly mutlidimensional. "Meadham Kirchhoff love to have emotional girls, and this season it was melancholy with a darkness of the eye and a hollow, tired look," White explained backstage. "These are girls who have passion and adventures, they are the types who might add to their makeup and keep on piling it on."
"We were going for more of a swampy, gypsy, early Courtney Love feeling to go with the clothes," Pecis told us backstage. "It was about pushing the edges of tough."
GET THE LOOK – MAKEUP: Glitter and shimmer and sequins, oh my! "I wanted to layer the makeup to reflect what was going on with the clothes and tailoring, so on eyes, I used four different shades," White explained. "I wanted to go beyond the constraints of makeup, go less blended, so it was a graphic, artistic impression of a makeup eye." The four shades she used on eyes are Tete-A-Tint, which gave eyes a real sallow look, Nehru, Feels Nice (a new colour) and Corduroy. She also applied sequins on the inner corners of the eyes to make them pop. On cheeks, she used a red pan stick for a deep red glow (to give the look of a passionate flush), finishing off with a dab of gloss to make the girls looks like active woman. Finally, Ruby Woo was applied on lips.
GET THE LOOK – HAIR: Maybe greasy hair days don't have to be such a bad thing anymore. Pecis said he wanted hair to look "a little stringy and ratty" and really compressed on top. To get the look, he first used Bumble and Bumble Grooming Creme to weigh hair down and put a hairnet on top to "marinate the hair together," so the effect would be smashed and compressed. He then set the back of the hair using irregularly shaped cardboard cutouts to create more of a hard angle with the bits of hair in back, which he then pressed together with an iron. "We did a slight backcomb with the back of the hair as well," Pecis said. The crucial finishing touch? Lots of Extra Strength Holding Spray to keep it all in place. To really look the part, accessorise with a tiara or paper crown.
GET THE LOOK – NAILS: It wasn't only the face that got the full treatment. White applied black nail varnish to fingernails and then scraped it off, adding pink glitter so hands were messy and looked like they belonged to an artist. In fact, the look was inspired by Meadham and Kirchoff's own experiences during the design process.
Read about the trends as they're made, behind the scenes at London Fashion Week over at our sister site, StyleList UK.