Do You Speak The Latest Hair Color Lingo?

by Grace Gold (Subscribe to Grace Gold's posts)
Posted Apr 13th 2010 at 7:00AM

Are you asking for the right process at the hair colorist? Photo: Getty Images

If your hair colorist told you she wanted to slice you, would you make a run for it?

Well, you shouldn't -- "slicing," along with "ribbons," and "shine lights" are merely the latest ways to get gorgeous locks.

As highlighting techniques have evolved, there are more modern ways to lace light through your strands, so that your face looks brighter and younger than ever. Some of these new techniques even feature the benefit of a more camouflaged grow-out, saving you both time and money.

Sounds amazing, right? Thing is, in order to experience this new technology, you've got to speak the lingo, so your colorist knows what you're asking for.

StyleList caught up with Jet Rhys of the Jet Rhys Salon in San Diego for the skinny on these insider terms, so the rest of us can experience these new face-altering hair color tricks.

Slicing - The colorist isolates a very thin section of hair with a pick comb in order to highlight, so that they can get in very close to the root. The effect can be very subtle or dramatic, depending on how thin or thick the slices are. "Traditionally, you weave hair in and out with highlights. This method grows in more naturally since you can get close to the root, giving you more bang for your buck!" says Rhys.

Shine Lights - Super skinny sections of hair are colored to enhance your hair's natural movement. Shine lights typically run two shades lighter or darker. and have the effect of making hair sparkle. "Sometimes adding lowlights can add a little sad cloud over your hair color. This technique instantly adds color to your skin and breaks up an over-lightened head of hair," says Rhys.

Ribbons - Medium sections of hair are lightened randomly, resulting in a more artistic flair, instead of the regimented pattern of classic highlights. "This can give you a fabulously fierce highlighted look!" says Rhys.

Baliage - Hair color is carefully hand-painted freestyle -- without foils -- onto select strands for a naturally sun-touched look. "It's a great way to personalize your color and it pairs amazingly with textured or wavy hair," says Rhys.

Blonde on Blonde - This term describes slowly lifting a lighter hair color base to prevent brassiness, and the resulting need for bleach. "In the past, we would have to place so much bleach on the hair to remove the brass and it would strip away shine and health. The new technique is so gorgeous and touchable - like Nicole Richie's beautiful buttery shade," says Rhys. In order to pull off this subtler process, your base can't stray too far from the shade mother nature gave you.

We recommend trying new highlighting techniques in the hands of a professional, but if you're looking for tips to use home highlighting kits, take this advice from What Not to Wear's hair expert, Ted Gibson. Follow the steps in the gallery below!

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Hair Basics: Highlighting 101

Get salon-worthy color at home with step-by-step tips from star stylist Ted Gibson.

Peter Buckingham

Hair Basics: Highlighting 101

Home highlighting has come a long way. Gone are the days of orange hair that looks and feels like straw. New formulas, with nourishing ingredients, offer healthy, natural-looking results. The key to achieving gorgeous color? Shade selection and placement. Here, celebrity stylist and Hair Basics expert, Ted Gibson, offers tips on how to achieve salon-worthy results at home.

Hair Basics: Highlighting 101

Shade selection can make or break your hair color. As a general rule, choose a shade that's one to two shades lighter than your natural base color. "If you have dark hair you want to stick with more of a neutral color and if your have medium toned hair you can go a little bit lighter," says Gibson.

Hair Basics: Highlighting 101

Where you place the highlights is essential. Start by looking at your cut. "Hair color is a great way to highlight a hair cut," says Gibson. "Always think about what feature you want to bring out and highlight it. So if you have bangs, highlight them so that you bring emphasis to your eyes. If you have a little bit of a longer bang, make sure to highlight in the front so it can highlight the cheek bone," he adds.

Hair Basics: Highlighting 101

Start applying in the front first, painting thin, delicate strokes from root to end. Move to the sides next and finish with the back. The back of the hair is the hardest to highlight-not a bad idea to enlist a friend. When applying, remember less is more. A few strategically placed highlights look most natural, and you can always add more later.

Hair Basics: Highlighting 101

Start the application 1/4 inch from the scalp. "You don't want the highlight to look like it's coming directly from the scalp," says Gibson.

Hair Basics: Highlighting 101

When applying the formula to the ends of the hair, you can paint it on a little thicker. Because the sun tends to lighten the ends the most, this creates a sun-kissed look that feels and looks more natural.

Tip: Highlights make the hair look thicker. "It actually expands the hair shaft," says Gibson, creating the appearance of fuller locks.

Hair Basics: Highlighting 101

When application is complete, allow the hair to process. Most kits have a 15-minute processing time.

Post-processing, shampoo and condition the hair thoroughly, then style.

Hair Basics: Highlighting 101

Soft and natural-looking, highlights create beautiful dimension to the hair and add a sun-kissed radiance.

Hair Basics: Highlighting 101

TIP: Your highlights will lighten over time. Make sure to use color-saving shampoos and conditioners to keep your color truer, longer.

Hair Basics: Highlighting 101

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