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Brazilian Keratin Hair Treatment: The Pros (and Pitfalls)

by Kelsey Karp (Subscribe to Kelsey Karp's posts)
Posted Apr 27th 2010 at 7:00AM  
334 Comments
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Our writer found that her frizzy hair met it's match with the right Brazilian Keratin Hair Treatment. Photo: Getty Images


One woman's quest to find the fastest, most effective and least toxic way to keep frizzy hair at bay.

Summer is rapidly approaching, which might mean no more frigid nights, but it also means humidity.

That's right, the dreaded eight-letter word that sees those of us with curly hair give up our sexy, Victoria's Secret-style waves for a look that seems inspired by Bozo the Clown. I should know. I live in Miami where humidity comes with the territory which is why, as I write this, I am comfortably perched in a salon as my stylist works her magic with the Brazilian Keratin Hair Treatment on my frizzy, mangled locks.

I wasn't always this calm about it.

As a Brazilian Keratin Hair Treatment devotee for the past three years, I have experienced the good the bad and the downright ugly. I was extremely skeptical when my stylist first suggested I try it. All the other "straightening" treatments I had previously done had sucked the money out of my pocket and left my hair with kinky roots and straight ends or hat hair and bed head combined. She insisted that the Brazilian Keratin Hair Treatment was different and so I embarked on the journey that has ultimately changed the life of my hair.

First, my hair was washed with a clarifying shampoo to open up the pores to allow the product to deeply penetrate every strand. After two shampoos it felt and looked like a birds nest. Somehow the stylist managed to maneuver a brush through it as she blow dried my hair. Next, she applied the Keratin mixture. After every strand was carefully coated I was left to sit for twenty minutes. I used the time to fantasize about the luscious locks I was about to leave the salon with. The buzzer disturbed me from my reverie, announcing that I was one step closer to having the hair I always dreamed of, but there was more to come. I was escorted back to the styling chair, where the stylist began to blow dry sections of my hair once again to seal the treatment in. Next, she straightened every strand with an iron. The whole process took about 3 hours. It felt like days.

Finally it was over and, as I shook out my smooth, straight hair, the stylist explained everything I would now need to do in order to keep it that way. Use a specific type of shampoo that does not contain sodium. No problem. Keep my hair absolutely straight until I wash it, meaning no ponytails, no headbands, no clips, no sunglasses, and no shoving it behind my ears to avoid kinks. I guess that is manageable. Don't get hair wet for at least four days which means no exercise to avoid sweat, and no showers. What! The pitfalls had kicked in.

The author's hair before (left) and after (right) the Brazilian Keratin Treatment. Photo: Courtesy of Kelsey Karp

I looked out the window of the salon to see the rain starting. My umbrella was lodged under a seat in my car. Fabulous. The salon put a plastic bag over my head so I could swiftly get to my vehicle. But my boyfriend thought I looked like a million bucks which, in turn, made me feel absolutely gorgeous. Sure, I paid about $300 for the compliment, but this was certainly worth it. Later that evening I took my contact lenses out and went to grab my glasses. The stylists voice purred in my ears: "Do not wear glasses as it will kink the hair." I stumbled to bed instead, stubbing my toe in the process.

On day two, I went out to dinner with friends and one of them suggested sitting on the outdoor patio despite it feeling like ninety degrees. No problem. I reached into my purse to grab a hair clip to get my long mane off my neck before I started sweating. As I started to twist my hair, I remembered another golden rule: No ponytails. Awesome. I cannot pull my hair back, but I also cannot sweat because that too will ruin my hair. Before the waitress started escorting us outdoors, I blurted out: "Need to be inside. Can't ruin my hair." She looked at me strangely, but I didn't care.

By day three I had turned a corner. My hair was plastered to my head and so flat that I refused to leave the house. My boyfriend sat on the opposite side of the couch when we watched a movie that night. At least my dog still sat on my lap.

Day four: My hair was officially greasy. All I could think was that my stylist was a lunatic. No exercising and no showering? I was a mess. My boyfriend was now MIA. I went to pick up my dog and even he ran under the bed.

I tossed and turned all night, impatiently waiting for my alarm to sound so I could bolt to the shower. Finally, the song "Whiskey Girl" blared on my phone, letting me know it was officially time to get up. I knocked my dog off the bed and practically tore the shower curtain down as I flung my body inside. After standing under the warm water for close to forty minutes, I was eager to start drying my hair to see the results. Like my stylist had suggested, I did not use a brush or any products. I just used a blow dryer. Instead of spending the typical forty minutes to get my hair straight, in merely ten minutes my hair looked like I had just got it done at a salon. I was officially hooked.

Three or four blissful months later, my hair began to react to the humidity once more so I knew it was time for me to get the process done again. This time, my stylist told me that the treatment was supposedly formaldehyde free because many salons had shifted away from formulas containing formaldehyde when the media blasted out information stating that some of these formulas are not FDA approved and can lead to cancer. I was relieved to hear that my hair's saving grace was now non-toxic.

This time I was prepared for the five day lock down in my apartment. Just like the previous time, I bolted to the shower on day five the minute "Whiskey Girl" blasted from my phone, only this time when I dried my hair it turned into a giant ball of frizz. I had to hold on to my bathroom counter. Did I seriously drop $300 and lock myself in my apartment for five days for no reason? I drove to the salon to show them the result. They surveyed my head and said there had been other complaints about the new formula not working. They offered to re-do it and I went through another five days of torture, but still no luck. Finally they gave me my money back.

I left the salon, utterly dejected. I had read in an article that Dee Adames, winner of Shear Genius, had opened a salon in Miami. So I called and Laila Tahari, her former partner at D&L Hair Studio (Adames left to open her own salon, Dee&Co Hair Studio, in South Beach last fall), told me about their Keratin treatment, emphasizing that it took a mere 24 hours to take. She described the treatment they use as "formulated specifically for damaged, chemically treated and dry hair to eliminate frizz and out of control curls."

The D&L Hair Studio offers a treatment that takes only 25 hours -- vs. five days -- to take. Photo: Courtesy of D&L Hair Studio


I took a deep breath and settled in for a third attempt, but it was done differently than at my previous salon. This time, when the Keratin was applied, the stylist put a mask over both her nose and mouth and mine as a precaution so we would not breathe in any chemicals that might exist even though their formula contains very little if any formaldehyde. "Better to be safe than sorry," she smiled. She told me that there are specific rules the manufacturer of the product requires the stylists to follow in order to protect their clients 100%. Not only was I safe, but I did not have to deal with the no shower rule for five days in order to have my Victoria's Secret hair.

Now, you probably have some questions about formaldehyde like, are we risking our lives for vanity? Is it FDA approved? M&M International, Inc. (also known as Marcia Teixeira), manufacturer of the only product actually named "Brazilian Keratin Treatment," has stated that, "While the FDA has a published list of forbidden ingredients, formaldehyde is not included on this list and, in fact, has been deemed safe to the great majority of consumers." At the same time they indicate the importance of going to a trained, licensed hair-care professional who knows how to properly use the product and makes sure the product does not come in contact with the skin. On their web site, the company goes on to explain: "In 1984, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (CIR) issued a report addressing the 'skin sensitivity' of certain individuals to formaldehyde and deemed as safe a concentration of .2% formaldehyde for those cosmetic and personal care products that are applied or come into contact with the skin. Contrary to the representations found in the media, the recommendation of the CIR does not extend or relate in any manner to the Brazilian Keratin Treatment, which uses derivatives of formaldehyde formulas to be safer."

Like Marcia Teixeira, Peter Coppola Salon also uses derivatives of formaldehyde in their Keratin Complex for safer straightening treatments. A few companies that opt for formaldehyde-free keratin treatments include Simply Smooth Keratin Treatment, Global Keratin, and probably the most well known, Brazilian Blowout. These formaldehyde-free formulas actually works, and allow you to wash your hair immediately after the process while still obtaining the desired results. The only downfall? It does not last quite as long as the other two treatments, although it still will give you the desired luscious look for about 10-12 weeks. Whether it is formaldehyde-free or not, all of these products still contain some chemicals just like soaps, shampoos, nail polish, detergents, cleaning agents, hair dye and other products so always read the labels and take precautions. Pregnant women should take the same precautions with the Keratin treatments as they would with any other products containing chemicals during their pregnancy.

If you have questions about the amount of formaldehyde or chemicals in the products a salon is using, ask to see the labels. You can never be too safe, and want to make sure that a salon is not using a "black market" product that is hazardous to your health.

But the pros far outweigh the pitfalls, especially if you can find a salon where it takes only 24 hours for the formula to sink in. In my opinion, it's like finding the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow.

Kelsey Karp contributed to StyleList using Seed.com. Go to www.seed.com to learn how you can contribute too.

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Filed under: Hair Care, Cuts & Style, Hair
Tags: BrazilianBlowout, BrazilianKeratinTreatment, Brazilianstraighteningtreatments, Coppola, DLHairStudio, FDA, FDAApproved, formaldehyde, formaldehyde-free, Frizz, Frizzfighter, Frizzyhair, GlobalKeratin, hairstraightening, Keratin, KeratinComplex, KeratinComplexSmoothingTherapy, KeratinTreatment, LailaTaheri, MarciaTeixeira, SimplySmoothKeratinTreatment, straighthair, VictoriasSecretHair
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READER COMMENTS

(334)Add A Comment

hello, 5-01-2010, 12:30PM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
hello

its called a perm black women have been getting them for years and now white women with "bad" or "kinky hair" gettin a Brazilian hair treatment. please call it what it is a PERM .

Reply »

sg, 5-01-2010, 2:02PM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
sg

No, it isn't a perm. It's 2010, a perm is something totally different these days.

»

Hot mama !!!, 5-01-2010, 12:34PM

2.5 stars vote downvote upReport
Hot mama !!!

There is no FDA watch or monitoring of these products!I have researched much on these products. This article is not accurate!!! Companys will TELL YOU WHAT YOU WANT TO HEAR....Stylists use Brazilian Blowout in my salon and health issues have developed as a result of being exposed to the formaldehyde..some of my clients have almost passed out,sinus burning,burning eyes,lung irritation !! This is a caustic,dangerous chemical to breath in WITHOUT PROPER VENTILATION!When flat ironed the FUMES are CAUSTIC ...please understand this.As a stylist being exposed repeatedly it is more cumulative...a client is in and out of salon...they might not realize the burning eyes,or red eyes,or headache or coughing,burning nose/sinus,is a sign of FORMALDEHYDE side effects! People...if you have ASTHMA OR HAVE FRAGILE IMMUNE SYSTEM...DO NOT DO THIS SERVICE,nor be serviced while this is being performed!! Now THAT is listed on the EPA web site .VERY DANGEROUS.This is sad that stylists, at the expense of others(and thier own) health will do this service in a salon!

Reply »

Tony Miller, 3-04-2011, 1:10PM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
Tony Miller

There is no test I am aware of that shows Brazilian Blowout exceeds any safety level. OSHA confirmed that actual salon monitoring for formaldehyde averaged .079 which is only trace amounts. If you flat iron virgin hair you will get .060. Formaldehyde is a naturally occurring organic compound that is everywhere.You are breathing trace amounts right now. OSHA's limit of .5 was never exceeded by the BB.
The false report of OSHA was the methylene glychol is formaldehyde. IT IS NOT!! Let me repeat methylene glycol is NOT formaldehyde. Methylene glycol is a LIQUID. Formaldehyde is a GAS. Methylene glycol is made by combining formaldehyde with water..BUT..once converted to methylene glycol it ceases to be even related to formaldehyde, it moves over to the glychol group. Methylene glycol is more related to alcohol than to formaldehyde. A comparison is that water is composed of two parts of a VERY explosive GAS, Hydrogen...yes...like the bomb. Are you afraid of water?
OHSA and various news organizations are creating REAL diseases by fear mongering and should be held responsible( see THE Nocebo effect ; harvardmagazine.com/2005/05/the-nocebo-effect.html

»

Suzy, 5-01-2010, 1:05PM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
Suzy



I have gotten the Coppola treatment done twice now..You only have to wait 72 hours to wash your hair which is three days..Doesnt mean you cant wash your body..Second of all should the hair get a little wet all you would have to do is flat iron it.
I too am one of those girls who think straight hair is more elegant and although everyone complimented me on my curly hair, I preferred straight. The best part about this process is how easy it is to blowdry your hair...my styling time went from 40 minutes to 15 minutes.. The first month is awesome because your hair will be so shiny and healthy and beautifully wavy with no effort at all..
Ive decided now that I dont want to get this done anymore (Even though I dont have to pay bc my mom is a stylist), Ive decided to get my hair back to how to was but now I dont even know if thats possible. its been almost five months and my hair is neither straight nor curly..only frizzy. So we will see if it will get back to normal once I start using a shampoo with sodium chloride...

Reply »

lilyspryte, 5-01-2010, 12:37PM

2.5 stars vote downvote upReport
lilyspryte

Saying men like straight hair is an ignorant blanket statement that is completely false. I have been with my husband for 8 years, and he loves my wavy/curly combo hair. All the men I dated before my husband said I looked better with my natural curls than with straight hair. Metro boys like straight hair, tans, and fake breasts. Real men like real women. That makes sense, doesn't it?

Reply »

Jenna, 5-01-2010, 12:35PM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
Jenna

I'm a thirteen year old girl with biracial hair. I need help.
I wanted a Japanese perm, but my stylist said that I would have to go back every six weeks to get it redone and that she didn't think it would be good at my age.
So instead a get a mild relaxer that makes the curls bigger and my hair a bit more wavy.

I'd like to wear my hair naturally, but nothing ever works.
So every week I straighten my hair with the inStyler.
I feel like it doesn't get it straight enough and I want to stop,
but when I wear my hair naturally I can only put it in a tight bun because it's so frizzy.

I talked to my stylist about a straightening treatment, and she said we could possibly do it.

What should I do?

Reply »

LEA, 5-02-2010, 4:31PM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
LEA

CAN YOU MAKE YOUR ATICLES NOT SO LONG WINDED NEXT TIME??? UUUUGGHH.

Reply »

Steph, 5-01-2010, 12:38PM

2.5 stars vote downvote upReport
Steph

Not able to shower for FIVE days? That's just plain nasty; how could she stand herself? I don't think a person that is generally clean would be able to tolerate this. I'd be ashamed to write this and have it published with my name next to it.

Reply »

Hot mama !!!, 5-01-2010, 12:39PM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
Hot mama !!!

It is a scientific fact that you MUST use a FORM of FORMALDEHYDE in product to make Keratin stick to hair!!! FORMALDEHYDE by any other name is still FORMALDEHYDE!! This is a toxic service ,especially for all that work in Salon with repeated exposure!

Reply »

Marian, 5-01-2010, 1:00PM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
Marian

It's your hair and your money, Sweetie; however, next time your are tempted to do expensive, radical treatments on your hair please know that you have lovely hair, period. There are so many folks out here (myself included) that may not have the hair they want; but, think for just a moment of the many children, young adults and adults who lose their hair due to illness. When I am so disgusted with my hair I want to shave it or when it just won't do a damned thing I pull on a trusted hat and keep moving.

Reply »

Els, 5-01-2010, 12:43PM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
Els

Funny thing is ... she looks a whole lot better with her beautiful curls - as many people who straighten do look better with soft curls. Girls, stop with the cookie-cutter, boring look of flat ironed hair and work your sexy girl curls ... they are gorgeous!!!

Reply »

D&L Hair Studio, 5-01-2010, 12:45PM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
D&L Hair Studio

D&L Hair Studio offers the 24 Hour Keratin Treatment
If you have any questions just give us a call!

305-662-8080 or visit us:

7301 sw 57ct Suite 130
South Miami, FL 33143

*Hope you enjoyed the article about Kelsey's "experience" with us


Reply »

Bill, 5-01-2010, 12:51PM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
Bill

How much did she spend? Fools and their money...

Reply »

renee, 5-01-2010, 1:35PM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
renee

Um. Anyone else wondering why she didn't just use a shower cap ?

Reply »

Annette, 5-01-2010, 12:52PM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
Annette

Don't fight it. Embrace your curly-girl locks. I spent years through my teens and twenties fighting the curl--blowing it out, using chemical straighteners, doing anything and everything I could just trying to have stick-straight hair. Now, I just go with the curl and it looks sooo much better. http://tinyurl.com/crlygrl BTW, I moved to FL a month ago and my curls look even better now than in that pic. I use Samy "Get Curls" (you can get it at drugstore.com). Use a large toothed comb to comb out upside down while your hair is soaking wet, then scrunch it a little with a towel, then apply/scrunch in the Samy with your hands while your hair is still very damp, flip it over, fluffy and scrunch a little more, and let it air dry. You can kiss the frizzies goodbye and it really helps define the curls.

Reply »

Sue, 5-01-2010, 7:36PM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
Sue

I think your hair looks great both ways. I have the straight hair that you dreamed of having. When I was younger, I had permanents and slept with rollers in my hair. Now I only use a blow drying and a curling iron.

I hope at some point in your life that you'll accept yourself as you are instead of going to such trouble to change yourself. I also hope you'll find a boyfriend who will appreciate your looks but will appreciate your humor and intelligence more.

Reply »

Tooki, 5-01-2010, 12:54PM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
Tooki

I sure didn't see anything with the before picture. I thought her hair was beautiful not the frizz ball she described. I think she needs to get a grip and her head examined for spending that kind of money on her head!

Reply »

acajudi, 5-02-2010, 9:15PM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
acajudi

Go to an African-American saloon. They can do it cheaper and safer, and after a time, you can purchase the product at the drugstore, and do it yourself. Personall, I liked her her hair before. Chelsea Clinton has very curly hair, and she would look better to keep it short.

Reply »

Rick, 5-01-2010, 1:00PM

2.5 stars vote downvote upReport
Rick

Call me crazy....but I like the before pic 10x better than the after.

Reply »

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