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Vidal Sassoon Talks The Bob Cut, Anna Wintour, and 'Caucasian Afro'

by Mark Ellwood (Subscribe to Mark Ellwood's posts)
Posted Apr 27th 2010 at 9:00AM  
78 Comments
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Vidal Sassoon attends the Tribeca Film launch event and 2010 Tribeca Film Festival celebration at Station Hollywood at W Hollywood Hotel on March 23, 2010 in Hollywood, California. Photo: Jason LaVeris/FilmMagic

Until "Sex and the City 2" arrives next month, the fashpack's must-see flick is likely to be "Vidal Sassoon: The Movie" which just premiered at the Tribeca Film Festival in New York. The groovy documentary – filmed largely in black and white, with appropriately Austin Powers-like graphics – is a biopic of the original celebrity hairdresser and Casanova crimper. In his heyday, Sassoon famously tousled the locks of Twiggy, designer Mary Quant, and Mia Farrow (he was responsible for that iconic crop the latter sported in "Rosemary's Baby).

Now a spry 82 (lifelong fitness freak Vidal demonstrates yoga flexibility onscreen that Madge might envy), he sadly missed the premiere due to a month-long hospital stay for pneumonia in Los Angeles. Fortunately for us, he was happy to speak to StyleList exclusively by phone.

StyleList: Talk to me about inventing the Bob Cut, arguably your most famous achievement. It's well documented in the movie.
Vidal Sasson:
[Actress] Nancy Kwan came to London and she had four feet of hair. Her director said 'I want you to give her one of your new looks, starting from scratch'. She was one of the most beautiful girls so you couldn't go wrong unless your scissors slipped. Fortuitously, she was half-Caucasian, half-Chinese so her hair was much stronger and kept its shape beautifully. She was a knockout girl and couldn't have been nicer.

SL: Did you know instantly that it would make your name? Can you tell right away when a cut is a classic?
VS: Yes. You know whether it needs to be improved, and go home and come back the next day to work on it more because there is no genius – just pure hard work and innovation. But you knew when you had something.

Clothes designer Mary Quant, one of the leading lights of the British fashion scene in the 1960's, having her hair cut by another fashion icon, hairdresser Vidal Sassoon. Photo: Ronald Dumont/Getty Images



SL: What about Anna Wintour, who's become synonymous with the style?
VS: I've never cut her hair but it looks marvelous on her. I would love to talk to her about it, but I can't just call and say 'I love the way you're wearing my hair'. And Victoria Beckham – she has a lovely haircut, reminiscent of the '60s with a '90s touch. It has moved on. They're very good for our kind of work because so many of the young girls just let their hair hang down to their shoulder and most of it looks terribly ugly. It's not even cut to the shoulders, it's just hanging.

SL: It doesn't bother you when people tweak your styles, then?
VS: People can get hold of this bob and as long as they know the techniques, they can put their own artistry in it. That's what important – it shouldn't stand still, or it's dead.

SL: Even as an octogenarian, you stay current– judging the finale of a reality show like 'Shear Genius'.
VS: The show is a very good idea, because it encourages young hairdressers to develop so even if they're not superb, they get better. I enjoy doing it actually. I think criticism should be done in a very kind, upbeat way – if you tear someone apart, there's no benefit to that.

SL: But the film shows that you weren't always quite so mellow.
VS: I was crazy, I was driven. In one moment of the movie, talking to the different stylists who worked with me, one young man says '[Vidal] was absolutely crazy, he had so much stamina he could work half the night'. And I liked that. I'm doing my autobiography and the two together have worked so well, bringing back the memory of what actually did happen.

Twiggy: Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images Mia Farrow: circa 1968: Actress Mia Farrow being given a haircut by Vidal Sassoon, in preparation for the film 'Rosemary's Baby'. Photo: Alan Band/Keystone/Getty Images


SL : This is the latest in a slew of fashion films, from 'Valentino' to 'The September Issue'.
VS: Grace Coddington was my top model in London. I did the 5-Point cut on Grace. We worked in Paris together, and so many other places. She's gone on to become a big star, which is lovely.

SL: What about 'Good Hair,' Chris' Rock's documentary about black women's complicated relationship with their hair? You called your Greek Goddess style 'the Caucasian Afro.'
VS: I had a number of good, good friends in New York who used to take me to Harlem in the 1960s, when it was difficult for a white face to be seen there. But I loved the jazz. And the inspiration for the Greek Goddess cut, the perm with no setting, came from great looking black hair in Harlem, there's no question about it. I said 'Why can't we get Asians and Caucasians to have that look?' and we worked on it one whole weekend in London. I took a couple of rooms at the Grosvenor House hotel and had a salon there. The whole team stayed the whole weekend until we got it right, as close to what you could get in Harlem as possible.

SL: As both a hairdresser and onetime Israeli soldier, the rumor is that Adam Sandler's character in 'Don't Mess with the Zohan' was based on you . Was that another Sassoon biopic?
VS: Nobody spoke to me about it at all, but I would have loved to have joined in the conversation there. But though I can't mention who yet, a very well known company wants to do my life story with real actors, from a child to an older man. I'd cast Jude Law – he's English and a man with great style.
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Filed under: Cuts & Style, Hair, News, Celebrity Hair
Tags: anna wintour, AnnaWintour, bob cut, BobCut, good hair, GoodHair, Shear Genius, ShearGenius, tribeca film festival, TribecaFilmFestival, victoria beckham, VictoriaBeckham, vidal sassoon, vidal sassoon the movie, VidalSassoon, VidalSassoonTheMovie
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READER COMMENTS

(78)Add A Comment

Laughing Lady, 4-28-2010, 3:38PM

3 stars vote downvote upReport
Laughing Lady

I never understood the appeal of a Sassoon cut. He had a way of making feminine women look like young boys. And his cuts were high maintainance because they were asymmetrical and full of angles. If you wanted it to grow out, you looked quite ugly
for a long time.

Reply »

jclay26617, 4-28-2010, 3:43PM

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jclay26617

Oh, to currently see hair with a 'style' of any kind would be like eye candy. Women's hair today looks like it's been cut with a lawn mower by the local gardner. Where, oh where are the Sasoons of today???

Reply »

Vidalfan, 4-28-2010, 3:56PM

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Vidalfan

Back in the day I used to go to Sassoon on Fifth Avenue in NYC for "free cuts" night, when they trained students. (Themselves already trained professionals, the idea was to train them in the Sassoon technique.)
So I would regularly get the classic bob. I found that it grew out beautifully. It was a gradual lengthening towards the face. When it grew in longer, worked just as well, until the next "free cuts" night. For a struggling actress, it was perfect!

Reply »

FOXYLYNX, 4-28-2010, 4:21PM

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FOXYLYNX

MOST HAIR STYLISTS DO NOT KNOW HOW TO CUT HAIR. YOU CAN TELL IF YOU GOT A GOOD CUT WHEN IT'S STILL WET. HAIR SHOULDN'T TAKE HOURS TO DO AND I LOVE HAIR THAT ISN'T AFRAID OF THE WIND. A GREAT STYLIST WILL TAKE 10 YRS OFF YOUR FACE AND EVERYONE KEEPS ASKING "WHO CUT YOUR HAIR". I DON'T HAVE A GREAT STYLIST RIGHT NOW AND IT'S DIFFICULT - I QUITE OFTEN CUT MY OWN HAIR BECAUSE IT LOOKS BETTER THAN WHEN I GO AND PAY 60.00 AND UP. SAD BUT TRUE.

Reply »

Vasu Murti, 4-28-2010, 4:41PM

2.5 stars vote downvote upReport
Vasu Murti

I remember the Vidal Sassoon commercials from the early '80s. He referred to his method as "Sassooning," and proclaimed: "I'm Vidal Sassoon, and if you don't look good -- we don't look good."

In 1982, when novelist Gore Vidal (one of the few liberals who could successfully debate conservative William F. Buckley), was running for office, he complained that people kept mistaking him for Vidal Sassoon!

Reply »

DarylD, 4-28-2010, 5:27PM

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DarylD

A Sassoon cut is the best cut you will ever get......

Reply »

Tuula, 4-28-2010, 5:43PM

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Tuula

In the 70's I had always my hair cut at the VS School in London off Bond st, at a prize of 4 pound sterling, those cuts are fab, stylish. The women in the USA should have VS at their hair because of the horrendous cuts they still are having, or rather not cutting their hair at all. Farrah Fawcett Majors hairstyles are out, oldfashioned, specially on anybody over 25 yrs.

Reply »

Karen, 4-28-2010, 6:09PM

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Karen

Sasson's haircuts are always the basic that I still use today! The line is softened a bit with movement (plucking) but the line is still there. I do see some stylists cutting into the line too much giving that lawnmower look that has been talked about I thank Sasson for making me the stylist I am today going to Sasson San Fran. and then working Bev. Hills!!!

Reply »

Valentina, 4-28-2010, 6:18PM

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Valentina

Throughout the years, I have maintained Vidal Sasoon's basic geometric cut. In fact, most hair dressers have no knowledge what the Bob Cut is about. So I have learned to cut my own hair...don't laugh, my hair comands compliments where-ever I go! Thanks to Vidal Sasoon's 'basic' geometric cut. Thanks Vidal, and I hope you are feeling better, you are my hero!

Reply »

skirt, 4-28-2010, 6:42PM

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skirt

I agree. Women don't really have hair STYLES these days. Bring back the Vidal creativity!!

Reply »

nancy, 4-28-2010, 7:22PM

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nancy

for those of you in atlanta there are 2 excellent sassoon trained stylists that i have used for many years. since high school i have only had sassoon stylists cut my hair except on rare occassions and it turned out to be a disaster. check out mark dodson at studio 305, atlanta, or lisa stephanson at vs, atlanta. you will be loving your hair again.

Reply »

Ann, 4-28-2010, 7:25PM

2.5 stars vote downvote upReport
Ann

In 1972 my hair was below my shoulders. One day I just had it, and went to get a Sasoon Cut! Out over my ears! I loved it. Today I find myself always going back to it! 40 years of Sasoon!!! THANKS!!!!!

Reply »

ImportantFacts, 4-28-2010, 7:29PM

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ImportantFacts

Actually Tuula, the Farrah Fawcett look of a feathered style is VERY much in style now....it is called a retro look. Look at so many of the young Hollywood actresses' hair.

Reply »

Joebudgie, 4-28-2010, 7:37PM

3 stars vote downvote upReport
Joebudgie

I think KARENisAWESOME has an uglier neighor who is more likely to be a tramp.Too bad there isn't a "Reply Icon" like AOL usually has. I'd like to know that B#$h Karen saw my comment.

Reply »

KikiCO, 4-28-2010, 10:14PM

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KikiCO

@KarenIsAwesome: Karen you sound old, fat, alone AND delusional. Sounds like your man has been next door and he likes it. If you were really secure about your style and your hair, you would need to put down another woman. Some women look better with short hair and like it. Other women need long hair as security blankets (like you) -- thinking that long hair equals feminity and sexiness. There's a lot more to being secure, sexy and alluring than the length of your hair, Karen. Growing up and being your own person would be a good start.

Reply »

Diane, 4-28-2010, 8:10PM

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Diane

The man was a genious. Todays hairdressers are like robots with nothing more to show for their uniqueness but more of the same long nothing hair. Sassoon knew he had magic in those scissors.

Reply »

Frankie, 4-28-2010, 8:12PM

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Frankie

I trained at the Vidal Sassoon salon in New York City (5th Avenue) years sgo. They didn't teach us a style, hey taught us technique. Those techniques I learned I still use today because they can be modified to do any style haircut.

Reply »

Frankie, 4-28-2010, 8:16PM

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Frankie

I posted that I used to work at Vidal Sassoon. But while I have your attention, ladies, please stop flat-ironing your hair. That stick straight style is so out. If it's not out in your neck of the woods, it will be soon. Soft waves and hair with some movement is back in again (thank goodness).

Reply »

Debi Drecksler, 4-28-2010, 8:35PM

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Debi Drecksler

My hair is my "crowning glory"....It is very long and naturally wavy...No "fancy shmancy" overpriced hairstylist will come near this head of hair with a scissor in his hand! www.debidrecksler.com

Reply »

Sprinkle Cookie, 4-28-2010, 8:41PM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
Sprinkle Cookie

Foxylynx: Just to add one more point...You know you got a good cut when 6 weeks later it STILL looks good. I had a killer stylist (at Regis, no less) who definitely knew how to cut curly hair...I'm gonna miss her! :) She saved me SO MUCH MONEY because I only had to go once every 2-2 1/2 months. And she would never take tips. She just loved to cut hair. :)

Reply »

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