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Gray Hair Dilemma: Lighten It, Darken It, or Keep It?

by Deborah Dunham (Subscribe to Deborah Dunham's posts)
Posted May 3rd 2010 at 7:00AM  
34 Comments
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helen mirren gray hair

Helen Mirren looks chic and sophisitcated with her gray locks. Photo: Jason LaVeris/FilmMagic.com

Nobody asks for gray hair, but like it or not, by the age of 50, half of us will discover that half our head is covered with the silver strands.

From the moment we start seeing this happen, the "solutions" can range from painfully plucking the grays one by one (which, by the way, does not make two gray hairs grow back in its place), using an all-over dye or adding highlights. Some women even choose to do away with the tedium of coloring and simply embrace their new silvery self.

"Gray or white hair tends to look best with pink, olive, and dark complexions," Lisa Chiccine, a stylist and owner of the Lisa Chiccine Salon in New York City, told O Magazine. "If you're sallow or very pale, you'll probably look washed-out and should consider highlights or lowlights," she says.

So for those of us who choose the color route, the question then becomes: Lighter or darker? Which hue is best?

While the most obvious answer may seem to go back to your natural color, if you were a brunette in your younger years, that darker shade may be too harsh for your face now and accentuate any lines or wrinkles. Switching to an all-over color that is one to two shades lighter than your original color or adding light brown or dark blonde highlights is a better option.

"Brown hair that looks mousy as the gray comes in can be brightened and enriched by weaving in highlights and lowlights of honey, tortoiseshell or mahogany," Chiccine advices. "Another good option if you're just starting to go gray is to use a vegetable dye or a semi-permanent glaze. Both will stain a lot of the gray, and when the color starts to fade, you won't have a root line," says Chiccine.

For those of us with lighter locks, hiding grays can be a little easier. "If you only have a few gray strands and your hair is naturally blonde to medium brown," says L'Oreal Paris on their web site, "you can easily camouflage the gray in your base color by highlighting. You'll create a beautiful, multitonal effect that will appear very natural."

No matter what your natural hair color, holding off on an all-over color and using highlights to subtly blend away those grays for as long as possible can relieve the stress -- and expense -- of maintaining a complete dye job. Just be sure to go a shade or two lighter and work with your stylist to complement your current skin tone and complexion.

Want more great advice on how to look younger? Check out these makeup tips!
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Filed under: Hair, Hair Color
Tags: color, coloring gray hair, ColoringGrayHair, gray, gray hair, GrayHair, hair, highlighting gray hair, HighlightingGrayHair, highlights, silver hair, SilverHair
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READER COMMENTS

(34)Add A Comment

Bella T, 5-04-2010, 7:01AM

2.5 stars vote downvote upReport
Bella T

I was always a brunette. My family goes prematurely white - not necessarily gray/silver - that comes later but by the time I was 32 I had enough white to be dyeing it every month or so. I tried going lighter - it looked terrible. Now I'm in my 50's and I actually went a few shades darker and get all kinds of compliments. I guess I'm lucky, we may lose our hair color young but my Italian genes has given me very few wrinkles.

Reply »

Murph, 5-04-2010, 12:39PM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
Murph

Ditto. If you don't look bad for being in your 50's then darker might be just what the doctor ordered

»

Cindy, 5-04-2010, 7:12AM

3 stars vote downvote upReport
Cindy

I think it is all trial & error. It has taken me several trips to the salon to get the shade I love. Gray hair looks good if you have a young looking face but blonde is best for me.

Reply »

CSulli, 5-04-2010, 7:27AM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
CSulli

My hair is white in the bang area and salt and pepper in the back. It grows 1/2 inch every month, which means to keep the white stripe that is so unattractive away, I'd have to color every 3 weeks. Since my hair was brown black when I was younger, it's too harsh a color for me approaching 60. I finally made the decision to go natural and it's easier for me, but I don't think it makes me look younger. Financially, I cannot afford the upkeep to have it done even once every 2 months (highlight/lowlight schedule for my hair). I'm sorry, there isn't a person alive who colors their hair that it doesn't scream, "I did it myself." And, that is not a compliment, even if I do tell you it looks nice, I am probably lying to you because the effort to look nice is what I am complimenting.

Reply »

j, 5-04-2010, 7:29AM

Half a star vote downvote upReport
j

Ladies,

Dying your head can cause cancer..the chemicals going into your scalp (most absorbing location on the body). I know of a few woman who dyed their hair for years and died of cancer.

Wigs, or highlights not touching the scalp.

J

Reply »

j, 5-04-2010, 7:31AM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
j

also, many who dye their hair with low immune systems will have symptoms right after the dye job. take notice. now more and more salons are going organic, natural, no chemcials.

Reply »

ANNMARIE, 5-04-2010, 8:09AM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
ANNMARIE

NOW THAT I'M 60, I'M A LITTLE DARKER SHADE OF BLONDE (NATURAL IS BROWN) BUT BEEN BLONDE ALL MY LIFE, BEEN VERY LUCKEY MY ITLAIN HERTIAGE SHOWS HARDLEY ANY LINES AT ALL....

Reply »

anita, 5-04-2010, 8:24AM

2.5 stars vote downvote upReport
anita

well im italian too but have few wrinkles of course im ONLY 37 years old so i dont have to worry about that for a while any way the women in my family go grey early as well and after YEARS and thousands of dollars of dying my hair i finally let it go but you know what i get MORE compliments on my hair NOW than i did when i was dying it

Reply »

Kathy, 5-04-2010, 8:25AM

3 stars vote downvote upReport
Kathy

My natural color was a very dark brown but for the last 15 years of coloring my hair I had gone blonde with light brown low lights. Two years ago it seemed to becoming harder and harder to keep the grey covered so I got lighter highlights and let the grey come in. I now have beautiful salt and pepper, shiny silver hair that EVERYONE compliments me on. I am SO glad that I decided to give it a try. However if you have darker hair to start out, this is not an easy task.

Reply »

cindycer, 5-04-2010, 8:43AM

3 stars vote downvote upReport
cindycer

Helen Mirren's hair looks like a light blonde to me - not gray as they are claiming.

Reply »

Donna, 5-04-2010, 8:58AM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
Donna

L'Oreal? WHY would anyone use a product that INSISTS on testing on animals in their laboratories?

Reply »

bxirish, 5-04-2010, 9:35AM

2.5 stars vote downvote upReport
bxirish

I am 48 and white in front, salt and pepper everywhere else. I finally grew it out after 25 years of coloring it. My friends (and husband) say I look younger. It is quite liberating to not have to get the roots done every 3-4 weeks.

Reply »

shelly, 5-04-2010, 9:46AM

3 stars vote downvote upReport
shelly

I'm 56 years old. I look to be about 35 facially ( due to good genes. My grandfather died at 88 years old and didn't have a line on his face AND had a full head of hair ) but I started getting gray hair at 19 years old.

I've been dying my hair most of my adult life and about two months ago, I said "Enough!"

Let's face it, after age 50, you aren't kidding anyone. That non-gray hair color and chemical highlight job came out of a bottle.

I got a short hair cut ( a la Jamie Lee Curtis ) and said good-bye to all the fried, color-treated hair that fell on the floor of the salon.

I have to tell you, I am thrilled with my natural gray hair! It ranges from white to salt & pepper. My plan is to let it grow out to "bob" length and then have some snarky silver-white highlights thrown in. There won't be any upkeep, other than cuts and the highlights can grow out naturally.

Let me tell you, if you maintain healthy skin and keep your hair in a stylish cut, you will look amazing. Too many women keep dying their hair in an effort to look "young." Instead, it has the opposite effect.

A great hairstyle/cut with gray hair can actually make you look "youthful." There is a difference between the appearance of trying to look "young" and actually looking "youthful."

One tip: Don't try to have long hair if you choose to go with your natural silver/gray. Unless you are Judy Collins or Emmylou Harris and have endless time and money to invest in long siver locks, you will either look like an old hippie or a Banshee. Keep it short to chin-length and in a style that ranges from edgy to "snarky" to bouncy.

Reply »

LA, 5-04-2010, 10:23AM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
LA

I am now 51 ... mother of two boys 21 and 23 ... I have never not once colored my hair ... I have gray hair mixed in with what I grew up with ... a reddish, blonde ... the man who cuts my hair
does an awesome job ! My hair is short ... I don't even comb it ... just run my fingers through and I'm good to go ... the Bible talks about gray hair ... " gray hair is a crown of splendor; it is attained by a righteous life " Proverbs 16:31

Reply »

Barb, 5-04-2010, 9:57AM

3 stars vote downvote upReport
Barb

Wish I was Italian......I not only have grey hair but Irish wrinkles.....

Reply »

Pamela, 5-04-2010, 10:11AM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
Pamela

I agree with many of the posters here about keeping a natural look - nothing's worse than an extreme hair color that clashes with your skin tone or age. And yes, Helen's hair is NOT grey - sheesh. Long grey hair is gross - I have yet to see ANYone pull that off - long hair is for young women - if you want to keep your long hair (many men like it - even into older years), at least tie it back or up - looks way more classy. And a good cut is fabulous - find someone who has a good cut and ask them where they go for it - it's worth the extra expense. I disagree with the poster who said DIY dye jobs always look bad. I have a knack for it and no one has ever guessed that I do it - not even my hair stylists (I don't cut my hair)! AND, I even perm my own hair and they couldn't tell! You do have to have a good hand at it, a good eye, and be a bit of an artist to get away with coloring your own hair. But - that said - I'll be glad for the day when I decide to stop - it IS a pain and I hate the chemicals.

Reply »

DEB, 5-04-2010, 10:21AM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
DEB

My hair was a beautiful mix of brunette,strawberry blonde. Im getting very grey now. I want to pop up the grey to a brighter silver color. Any suggestions? My stylist says she cant make a silver color out of grey. I would like to get it more white to make it pop instead of dull grey.

Reply »

Carol, 5-04-2010, 10:24AM

2.5 stars vote downvote upReport
Carol

In my youth my hair was dark brown. As I grew older I lightened my hair and by the time I was 67 I was a blonde. I was forced into grey hair due to a broken arm and after being grey for a while I actually liked it. So many people came up to me and said they loved the color of my hair which is several shades of white/grey. It actually does look very stunning. My husband loves it too. It is very freeing not to have to color my hair anymore. I guess I'm lucky to have pretty grey hair.

Reply »

today, 5-04-2010, 10:34AM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
today

Several years ago, in the place where I worked, there was this lovely lady, who also worked there. She was petite and had been dying her hair for years. She was diagnosed with a brain tumor and so, so quickly she was gone. She had just become a grandmother for the first time and her other daughter was pregnant for the first time when she passed. We heard that all the chemicals for all those years were part of the reason for her demise. She was not old. In her fifties if I remember correctly. What a price to pay for trying to look like something you are not.

Reply »

jane Hyatt, 5-04-2010, 10:47AM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
jane Hyatt

I would like to find out how Deb is going to get silver color out of her grey color! I, too, have dark hair that is really an ugly grey. If I did not color the grey, my pale, pink complexion would look ancient. A lighter hair color makes me look anemic.I want to know if someone has an answer that works.

Reply »

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