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What Would Mother Nature Think of Your Hair Dye?

by Deborah Dunham (Subscribe to Deborah Dunham's posts)
Posted May 4th 2010 at 7:00AM  
17 Comments
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Photo: Getty Images

Did you know the smell associated with hair dye is actually sulfur being released into the air from the damaged hair? You don't have to be a tree hugger to want to avoid the potentially damaging effects of harsh irritants and carcinogens in many at-home and salon dyes.

With an estimated 75 percent of women over the age of 40 coloring their hair according to care2.org, that's a lot of exposure to harmful chemicals like ammonia, hydrogen peroxide, and coal tar–derived p-Phenylenediamine. Because permanently changing our hair color requires opening the cuticle -- or outer layer -- of the hair and then stripping the current color to let the new shade adhere, the "muscle" of chemicals is often needed. But, in a world where eco-friendly cosmetics and skincare products are widespread, you would think more natural hair dyes would be be available.

According to some stylists, they are.

Sam Brocato, stylist and owner of Sam Brocato Salon in New York City, says hair color has come a long way in the last decade and has never been safer. "While there is not a natural dye that lightens hair permanently, there are wonderful plant-based demi-permanent hair colors which last up to four months and condition the hair at the same time," he says.

"Going darker using all sorts of garden goodies is a better bet than trying to go lighter," Brocato says. "But because demi-permanent color is so gentle, it cannot lighten hair, so it is not a good option for blondes."

Lemon's can lighten hair, but may also damage it. Photo: Corbis

Brocato also says that the old-standby of using lemon will indeed lighten the hair, but the user doesn't have control over the exact shade or how light the hair will get. He also explains that the acid in lemon juice is extremely damaging and drying to the hair, so it's probably not your best bet.

Those of us wanting more red hues can try henna, but Brocato advises us to be careful here too. "Henna will darken and give nice warm red tones, but without the same control of lab developed products offering the same or more choices," Brocato says. "Hair that has been colored with henna can be very difficult (or impossible) to fix or change."

Instead, try another natural hue-changing option. "I love cherry juice on dark hair for clear semi tones," says Brocato. "Also, black tea steeped over night rinsed through brown hair gives a beautiful shine and a glass like dark finish. Chamomile on blonde does the same."

For women with gray hair, switching to a demi-permanent hair color presents several advantages according to Brocato. "For some women, their gray will cover 100%; for others, the gray will be translucently covered, creating a soft highlighted look."

One last tip for all women: Consider highlights instead of all-over color. They require significantly fewer chemicals and less dye comes in contact with your scalp.

Want other natural ways to look your best? Try these eco-friendly hair treatments!

And click here to learn how to make your own shampoo!
Read All Comments
Filed under: Hair, Hair Color
Tags: color, environmentally friendly hair color, EnvironmentallyFriendlyHairColor, hair, hair dye, HairDye, henna, highlights, lemon juice, LemonJuice, mother nature, MotherNature, natural, natural coloring, natural hair dye, NaturalColoring, NaturalHairDye, sam brocato, SamBrocato
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READER COMMENTS

(17)Add A Comment

Trish, 5-05-2010, 9:20AM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
Trish

Jikkyionly:
Try Living Proof® products at Sephora®. They really work for me: all day protection from frizz and poof in steamy southeast Texas. There are several options depending on your hair's thickness/texture and whether you want your style curly or straight. It is pricey, so you might try a sample if you have a store near you or get the small size if you buy online. A plus for damaged hair is that it repels dirt and oil, so you don't have to shampoo as often = you don't have to heat style as much.

»

Carrie, 5-05-2010, 7:04AM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
Carrie

I have the same kind of hair. What works is a leave in conditioner or a hydrating conditioner-usually by biolage or bioinfusion for the hydrating. If you don't color your hair, a good leave in conditioner is available bt fructis. If you do there is one with olive oil in the ethnic section of the hair acare products of the store. Hope this helps!:)

Reply »

anita, 5-05-2010, 8:42AM

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anita

i dont know home hair dye kits smell better now adays than they did a few years ago ten years ago they would STINK up my apartment now they smell good by comparison

Reply »

Melissa, 5-05-2010, 8:57AM

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Melissa

I have the same type of hair and the best product I found and use every day is Moroccanoil. Even though it's oil, it's not oily on the hair. I use a few drops for my whole head and my hair is never frizzy or crunchy. It leaves my hair so soft and shiny and healthy looking. I've never had a bad hair day since using it and everybody always comments on how healthy my hair looks. It's a little pricey (about $35.00 per bottle), but it lasts forever because you only need a few drops, literally. And it is so worth it!

Reply »

Dave, 5-05-2010, 9:45AM

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Dave

I'm looking for a natural hair color aid, for ammonia and commercial products cause rashes on my scalp. What's the process with the black tea and are there any other alternatives?

Reply »

tomatomoosh, 9-05-2010, 10:06AM

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tomatomoosh

If you don't want red-red, there is also black henna, that, depending on how long it stays on your hair, can darken your hair or turn it black.

»

Mary, 5-05-2010, 2:18PM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
Mary

Why did the headline say hair dye that lasts 4 months when the article wasn't about that at all.

Reply »

Colleen, 5-06-2010, 3:10PM

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Colleen

Dear Deborah Dunham,
How is it that you are a Beauty writer??? I am a Cosmetologist, I've been in the industry for over 17 years, the most basic of basics is that hair is not DYED, clothes are DYED, hair is COLORED!! SO PLEASE if you are a "Beauty Expert" then just get the lingo correct!
So in making the statements about hair and color just remember that simple rule! Then next article I may take you more seriously. I only clicked on the article so I could tell you that fact, I couldn't even finish reading the it!
So that is my rant! Thanks for your time. Take care!

Reply »

Joy, 5-05-2010, 11:20AM

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Joy

Dave, Try the newer products by most companies that make AMMONIA FREE products. Available in most drug stores they come in a wide variety of colors with everything in one box.
The easiest yet and most take only 10 minutes after applying.
Works for me, good luck!

Reply »

cnash, 5-05-2010, 11:54AM

2.5 stars vote downvote upReport
cnash

umm the hair grows from the scalp out,which means the new outgrowth is virgin hair,most people at an average growth of 1/2 inch per month,soo times that by 4 months with no color touch up...and you will have roots.unless they invent a liquid dye that you drink so the new hair is colored before entering the world...its not going too last 4mnths without any in between touch up on the new growth..and i should know beacuse im a licensed professional stylist...

Reply »

Lynne W, 5-05-2010, 11:50AM

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Lynne W

Like one of the other comments here, I use the whole line of Moroccan Oil and absolutely love it. It extends the life of my color, keeps my hair from frizzing, leaves it shiny, healthy and soft. That's pretty good considering I have double processed blond hair and I use a flat iron daily. It's pricey but a little goes a long way.

Reply »

Angiebaby, 5-05-2010, 12:09PM

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Angiebaby

Screw Mother Nature AND this article. One has robbed me of my of hair color, and the other has a suitable fix for every effen' hair color but the one I want! Story of my life....

Reply »

maricia12, 5-05-2010, 1:34PM

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maricia12

All permanent hair colors last until the hair is cut where the color covers it. They all have a tendency to lighten up and look dull after frequet shampoos and a couple of months. If you don't want your roots to "stand out like a sore thumb", then you are going to have to retouch the color on the new growth about every 3-6 wks depending on the shade you choose to cover your natural color. If you are looking for more natural hair colors, try your health food stores. They often have them in the section with the natural skin care, shampoo, soaps and cosmetics.

Reply »

kristi9962, 5-13-2010, 10:36PM

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kristi9962

The only permanent hair color that is worth its weight is one called Organic Color Systems. It is manufactured in the UK but available in salons throughout the US and Canada. Its uses an oil based heat delivery system to deliver the hair pigment into the cuticle to attach to the hair shaft and consist of 90% organically derived ingredients. The color holds forever and does not fade, covers gray fantastically, and is ammonia free. The absence of ammonia means that the hair is not damaged which also allows you to receive color treatments more often and avoid that over-processed look. I am a big believer, and admittedly an evangelist of natural products. So many professional color products such as Ecocolors, Tienture, and Inoa contain chemicals like ammonia, ppd's, or worse yet, don't even disclose their ingredients. Being a hairdresser, thorough knowledge of the ingredients you are applying to your client's scalp is a minimum amount of professional diligence you are responsible for doing on their behalf. Organic Color Systems is the only color I use.

Reply »

back2myroots, 5-17-2010, 6:45AM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
back2myroots

Interesting Article think i'll join in!
Demi Colour by design will open the cuticle and willl with continued use lighten the hair from it's natural level it has about 5vol peroxide needed to activate the colour molecule as it's deposited. the deposit is deeper than Semi. to open the cuticle an Alkaline will be present.
If not Ammonia then maybe MEA or some other naturally sourced alkaline. many of these natural organic colours mislead, just because it's from a natural does not make it natural once processed! Grain wheat Natural when fermented becomes alkaline in the form of grain Alcohol used in hair colour as an alkaline.but because it's from grain it can claim to be natural.
The article is correct about some forms of henna being bad, they can build up and by design coat and suffocate the cuticle. some of them can have metallic salt and compounds added, It is not possible to remove henna from the hair it is not advisable to do professional services over henna.
I think that writing an article about hair Colour and trying to weigh up the the advantages and disadvantages of both is quite hard to do.
It has been recorded historically that ancient civilizations dyed their hair using plants. Some of the most well known are henna, indigo, Cassia obovata, senna, turmeric and amla. Others include katam, black walnut hulls, and leeks.
Presently, there are some companies that do sell alternate-based dyes for people that are sensitive to PPD, a chemical found in most hair colors.
There are also said to be safer products that avoid the side-effects of most industrial tints. The safer alternatives generally contain fewer potentially toxic compounds or are plant based, and do also have temporary, semi-permanent and permanent options.
However, these products typically do not last as long as industrial tints once again the engine driving the colour can be classed as herbal but it may be just as toxic as Ammonia! grain Alcohol for example Silicone and oils.
The henna compound dyes are mixtures of metallic salts with organic intermediates such as pyrogallol. The colors achieved with these com­pounds are more natural looking than those obtained with the metal salts alone, but no lightening of the hair is possible and they fade easily. They are discolored by cold wave permanents, and hair treated with these compounds cannot be bleached or dyed until the metallic salts have been removed. [removing metallic salts] good luck with that!

Red Henna comes from the Dried leaves of the Privet [lawsonia alba] grown in Asia and northern Africa.
Natural henna comes from the crushed root.
Natural henna is sometimes mixed with compounds of Metallic salts to produce a range of different colours. Hair coloured with Metallic salt henna cannot and should not be coloured with any other products including Hydrogen Peroxide.
If unsure do a strand test,[ Strong discoloration,an unpleasant smell. no colour change, uneven results down hair shaft, in some case applying permanent colour over the top of Metallic salts can cause a high heat reaction!]
Henna can make appear shinny with more body and natural red hues depending on natural base level!
Henna Can over time build up on hair make it brittle it is not possible to chemically remove henna.
{Again before attempting any new colour strand testis essential!}


Ok that's my lot Mike B2MR Back2myroots Blog site for these topics and more

Reply »

back2myroots, 5-18-2010, 5:07PM

2 stars vote downvote upReport
back2myroots

All the confusion around hair colour chemistry is due in many cases to stylist believing what the sales rep or colour companies tell or lead them to believe.
Knowing and understanding the chemistry of hair colour comes with knowledge and education , when preaching the merits of any colour one should make sure they have all the facts and understand the effects,
Natural herbal Organic hair colour has to have an alkaline in it, Alcohol Denature is produced from grain fermentation it is a bye product of Ethanol , Ethanolamine, designed to open the cuticle it is used in colour to manipulate the Ph open the cuticle.
when preaching the merits of natural organic do your home work!

Reply »

Melissa, 6-30-2010, 11:14PM

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Melissa

@Dave, try Naturtint or Herbatint. If you can't find them at the beauty supply store you can order online.

Reply »

 
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