Rebecca Taylor Fall 2010. Photo: Frazer Harrison, Getty Images
There is certainly a fall trend in hair and beauty for everyone for this autumn.
Sultry, kohl-rimmed eyes, graphic brows and look–at-me lashes are a surefire option for those with a flair for the dramatic. Fresh faces and ponytails are perfect for the more laid-back ladies, and slept-in "I don't care" hairstyles and makeup -- circa Kate Moss from the early 1990s -- will be a cool kid favorite.
M.A.C. Cosmetics senior makeup artist Romero Jennings summed it up best: "Makeup for Fall 2010 was really technical and moody! Some of the looks were so moody they seemed to be deep in thought."
Translation? Everything and anything goes this season.
Read on to see what you simply must have in that makeup bag for fall. For the full report on backstage beauty trends at fashion week, click here.
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Fall 2010 Beauty Trends
Makeup artists either took 'em or left 'em this season, but whether they were bleached out or eerily intensified, eyebrows were definitely back and bolder than ever on fall runways. How you decide to rock this trend is entirely up to you.
"Eye brows were either there or not," explained M.A.C. Senior makeup artist Romero Jennings. "Some makeup artists used an ultimately bold boyish brow as a way to bring intensity to understated makeup, but I find that the bold brow could be taken out of context for the every day woman."
In Milan, strong brows at both Roberto Cavalli and Marni helped to make smokey eyes the main attraction, while at Narcisco Rodriquez, bold sculptural brows were a focal point-slashed with dark gray tones to for a "strong, architectural line," according to makeup artist Dick Page.
Brows also took center stage at Thakoon where makeup artist Diane Kendal used them to convey depth and boldness, while at Prada, Pat McGrath created a full, brushed-up, super strong brow. At Gary Graham, impossible-to-ignore, painted-on-black eyebrows were impossible to ignore. But perhaps nowhere was the graphic brow more evident or awe-inspiring than at Balenciaga, where Pat McGrath colored models' brows one of seven futuristic shades of pink, green and other crazy neon hues.
In the case of many American designers, less is definitely more for fall. Natural, barely-there makeup articulated through luminous skin and paired-down hair tempered some of the dramatic effect seen on fall runways.
"Overall the trend in beauty was for very natural looks," said trend forecaster Claire Hamilton of online style source WGSN. "Part of that has to do with the new direction of luxury, the new minimalism in ready-to-wear and a less artificial feeling."Indeed, standout designers like Michael Kors, Calvin Klein and even Marc Jacobs, seemed to adhere to a more simplistic motto for fall, going easy on the makeup and customizing girls' looks to highlight little more than their natural beauty.
The makeup for Kor's Fall 2010 collection, at the hands of Dick Page, was all about "Michael's iconic idea of American beauty," with warm, healthy skin and just a little detail on the eyes. Rose-beige lips were blotted down for subtle softness. Soft taupe makeup was the order of the day backstage at Calving Klein, while Marc Jacob's show stood in stark contrast to his spectaculars of seasons' past, as models bore hardly any makeup.
Even Reed Krakoff, Coach's executive creative director, wanted low-key makeup for his debut collection of utilitarian sportswear. Said makeup artist Dick Page: "My take on that was for them to look as though they hadn't been touched that much." The effect was decidedly natural, with just a little mauve color dabbed on the lip, and a glowing honey-gloss mixed with a dark brown pencil at the lash line.
Kate Moss seemed to be the word on almost everyone's lips backstage at Fashion Week. Still the reigning queen of cool, even at 36, Moss's influence was evident everywhere- from the slept-in makeup at Marc Jacobs to the "I don't care" hair at Zero + Maria Cornejo.
"One of the biggest trends is grungy hair," says Redken creative consultant Guido Paulo. "disheveled and masculine looks with low side parts that are quite 'messy'. Whether directly referencing Moss or not, slept-in undone hair-not so dissimilar from the styles our favorite Brit It girl rocks-were the order of the day on fall runways.
At Jill Stuart, hair stylist Bob Recine worked hair to look like "Kate Moss leaving a night club at 4am-There's a messy nonchalance, but the key to the look is confidence." Also not too far off the Moss mark was the casually messy hair at Derek Lam at the hands of Orlanda Pita, who spritzed strands with light hairspray before brushing it out. Designer Marc Jacobs was inspired by the film La Vie des Autres and told StyleList that he "wanted the models to have a dirty look as if the hair and makeup had been slept in."
Meanwhile, at Rebecca Taylor, the models had a purposely undone look to their hair his translated into textured, bedhead-y hair. Stylist Rudi Lewis hearkened the look to Charlotte Gainsbourg and Lou Doillon, "She knows she's cool and doesn't have to try so hard," he said. Which, really, is just another way of saying Kate Moss.
It's definitely all about the blues this season. Velvety blue eyes, whether navy, royal or turquoise, smoldered on fall runways, offering an updated take on the classic smokey eye. Makeup artists layered different shades of blue and plum in organic shapes for a look that was powerful but still pretty.
At Derek Lam, Estee Lauder creative makeup director Tom Pecheux created a powerful navy-blue eye with a gorgeous slash on copper beneath the eyes and on the lips. "The navy eye creates a powerful look, but we are blending really well, so it's a continuous wash, versus a graphic shape," he told StyleList. At Rachel Roy, makeup artist Wendy Rowe created a heavyvelvet eye bursting with a hint of aqua that mimicked the shades found on a peacock feather for a more futuristic take on the trend.
And at Walter, Napoleon Perdis created a beautiful blue eye palette that popped against the blue and black-themed collection. "It's not too dark, but looks as if she applied it all herself," he said. "I wanted it to look like the kind of girl who just rimmed her eyes for day but then for night she adds a little bit of blue to make it look amazing."
Whether blood orange, plum purple or siren red, cant-miss lips are the big news this season. Matte in finish, the new must-have lip was spotted everywhere from Yves Saint Laurent and Dolce & Gabbana to Richard Chai and Tory Burch, where anything went as long as pouts were impossible to ignore.
Matte red lips ruled the runway at Richard Chai, where vivid red pouts stood out against nude eyes and clean skin. Makeup artist Gucci Westman exfoliated lips first, and used lip liner to create a crisp line around the mouth to perfect the look.
At Doo Ri, Tom Pecheux created an old Hollywood, pencil-perfect red lip, which he "awkward-ized" by layering on tons of teal and iridescent glitter for an Avatar-like effect.
Deep purple lips with a metallic finish popped at Peter Som, where Pecheux set a dark burgundy lipstick with a mineralized powder eye shadow.
And makeup artist Diane Kendal accented fresh faces at Tory Burch with bright orange-y red matte lips, while Pat McGrath mixed together three different red lipsticks at Dolce & Gabbana for a velvety glamorous lip.
Nineties-inspired grunge seemed to be the look among the cool kids of the fashion world, with everyone from Alexander Wang to Marc Jacobs turning out "I just rolled out of bed" dirty-looking hair paired with dark bits of makeup here and there.
At Rag & Bone, the look was very "I don't care," circa 1992 according to makeup artist Gucci Westman, who cited 90s-style Kate Moss and Courtney Love as her inspiration. Smudgily lined eyes, minimal mascara, and supernaturally nude lips articulated the confident cool look. At Alexander Wang, the beauty team perfected Wang's vision of the "it" grunge girl that he designs for. Diane Kendal worked her makeup brushes to create a look that was all about a reddy brown, gorgeous eye, using grease over the eye lids, and blending it up into the brow bone.
And at Proenza Schouler tousled textured hair at the hands of stylist Didier Malige took a very laid-back 90s grunge feel.
There was no shortage of liquid liner backstage, as dramatic kohl-rimmed, look-at-me eyes reigned on fall runways. whether dark and sultry or simply over-the-top theatrical, come-hither eyes came alive against nude faces and lips.
"The focus was on the eyes," said Chanel's global creative director of Makeup, Peter Philips, who recreated a "paint print texture" that designer Karl Lagerfeld used on some of the brand's handbags and shoes. Philips used a cream liner to paint inky black makeup around the eyes and using a brush, extended the pattern out toward the temples.
At Joseph Altuzarra, reddish eyes were impossible to ignore at the hands of makeup artist Tom Pecheux, who created a black smudgy eye that was "a bit greasy," thanks to a gray lip gloss dabbed on lids and red lipstick that he used as liner beneath the eye. And at Lanvin, super strong eyes lent some sex appeal to the uniformed models marching down the runway. Makeup artist Pat MCGrath rimmed eyes with thick black liner and eye shadow, and applied a ton of mascara on lashes. Lids were coated with a gold shadow.
If the side braid was the standout star for spring than the ponytail – in sleek, messy and even some colorful variations – is making a comeback for fall. Whether wrapped with a leather chord or adorned with a piece of ribbon, this is one mini-trend you can make all your own. "I think Ponytails are always a trend, they don't ever really go out of fashion," said celebrated stylist and Redken creative consultant Guido Paulo. "There are so many different ways a ponytail could be worn for Fall 2010."
At Calvin Klein, this meant super sleek versions to suit the strong silhouette and the over all 'futuristic' element of the show, where Guido reinvented the classic style with a deep side part. At Louis Vuitton, he opted for a more classic ponytail to complement the 1950s-inspired collection, curling the ends and concealing the elastic holder by wrapping it with a piece of hair. A softer slightly undone version took hold at DKNY, where stylist Eva Scrivo created a low side ponytail that flirtatiously sat over the shoulder.
And at Vena Cava, stylist Ted Gibson created a "modern equestrian" look, where he added brightly-colored extensions to hair that was pulled back in a low ponytail, and secured with a piece of black leather.
A new way to wear neutrals for fall? On your nails. The season's new must have colors are earth-inspired in muted shades of stone, mud and camel. "It was all about gray tones, at the New York shows," says Claire Hamilton of style tracking firm WGSN. Indeed, everyone from Jason Woo and Doo Ri to Marc Jacobs and Oscar de La Renta seemed to hop on heathered trend.
M.A.C. previewed a new glittery stone cement-like shade backstage at Doo Ri, as part of a second collaboration with celebrity manicurist Jin Soon Choi, which will debut at the end of summer.
A muddy shade with just a hint of shimmer by Zoya was used at Peter Som, and at Behnaz Sarafpour CND created a cashmere-like color. The folks at Butter London whipped up a dark earthy polish with a slightly "foggy finish" for Vena Cava, as well as a cashmere-like color at Behnaz Sarafpour.
