J.Crew tumbles into fall with a roughed-up-luxe catalog, arriving in homes this week. Tom Mora, head of J.Crew weddings design, gave
StyleList a tour through the season's new looks.
As Jenna Lyons, the
new president of J.Crew, previously told
StyleList, the
autumn collection was conceived as "Edie Beale-goes-to-Girl Scout camp." "Grey Gardens" icon Beale, the subject of
a 1975 documentary, a
2006 Broadway musical, and a
2009 HBO biopic, became a cult fashion figure for her quirky, layered outfits.
J.Crew played with the contrasts of glamour and utilitarian style, both in its clothing and the setting of the catalog's opening pages. Mora notes that the collection hinges on "the idea of new classics, rebuilding them and reconstructing them... They're very comfortable looking; they're slouchy. The colors are moody and earthy."
In keeping with the guiding spirit of Beale, Mora underscored the "grandma chic [of layering], with an emphasis on texture. Or think about your grandfather's sweater and layering over that."
Subtle colors, especially various shades of green, are key to this layered style. "The muted colors allow you to layer colors that wouldn't necessarily go together," believes Mora. Moss green, forest green, and a sallow olive bridge the gap between grays, blush pinks, and reddish browns.
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J.Crew September Catalog
Get an exclusive sneak peek of J.Crew's luxurious and laid-back September catalog.
Courtesy of J.Crew
J.Crew September Catalog - Sneak Peek
J.Crew's September catalog has a dreamy, playful feel, pairing opulent items (like this marabou jacket) with hardworking basics, such as a T-shirt or corduroy pants. More of the company's limited edition, high-end Collection items appear throughout this mailing. "That becomes part of the Edie Beale thing as well: heirloom pieces that feel luxe," explains Mora.
J.Crew September Catalog - Sneak Peek
The first section of the catalog sets the opposites-attract tone. Models pose on weathered velvet chairs or rusty, camp-style bedsteads draped with vintage scarves. Here, satin platform heels pair with an asymmetric sweater inspired by motorcycle jackets.
J.Crew September Catalog - Sneak Peek
You'll get a glimpse of a whimsical new accessory from the Collection line: a Mongolian lamb purse. The fluffy, pale confection marks the first season that J.Crew has worked with this material.
J.Crew September Catalog - Sneak Peek
A new women's denim cut debuts in this catalog: the Downtown Skinny Jean, with a straight, tight leg. These jeans aren't alone in getting slimmed down. Other women's pants and the men's 484 slim-fit cords also got a bit narrower. Since many of the jacket styles became looser and more slouchy, notes Mora, pants were trimmed to give a play of proportion.
J.Crew September Catalog - Sneak Peek
J.Crew partnered with milliner Albertus Swanepoel for a smashing statement piece: a wool leopard-print fedora. Mora raved about the textures and juxtapositions in this outfit, although he admits, "we don't feel that people are going to walk down the street wearing the look head to toe." He clarifies, "You take the elements you want when we give ideas of ways to put things together. But who knows, maybe you'll try the shirt with the tie with the necklace!"
J.Crew September Catalog - Sneak Peek
Classic pieces, like a heathered wool toggle cardigan and hand-stitched Quoddy bluchers, exemplify the men's fall line -- but having a long-haired model with a full beard is a first for J.Crew.
J.Crew September Catalog - Sneak Peek
Another swelling trend is wearing
shorts into fall, either barelegged or over tights. Every variation the models wear, from black wool tuxedo shorts to denim boyfriend shorts, is rolled up to show even more leg. (If this look makes you a bit anxious, check out our
summer tips on looking better in shorts.)
A magpie love of shiny things brightens up both the dressy and casual clothes. Sequins sparkle on pencil skirts, cardigans, tees, and harem pants. Even the models' nails have an extra gleam, with a special heat-activated coating that gives a metallic luster.
The shine really kicks in on the pages with the cast of the upcoming film "
The Romantics," including Katie Holmes and Josh Duhamel. As we
previewed earlier this month, the actresses shimmy in sequins, beads, and embroidered crystals.
Glitter aside, the women's looks still borrow freely from the boys.
Oxford shoes, checked shirts, and utility jackets give the feminine frills a tough overlay.
Women have also been ordering directly from the men's pages; the extra-small sizes available in shirts and sweaters make the raiding parties even easier.
One of Mora's favorite men's items is a dove-gray
heathered wool cardigan. "The contrast-color buttons make it look vintage, even Japanese... the Japanese have such a hyper-vision of American style," he says. "They've done such amazing things with American style so it comes full circle, in a way."
Meanwhile, check out these
fall hair and makeup trends.