Jemal Countess, Getty Images for IMG

DESIGNER: Jenny Packham

INSPIRATION: Watercolor memories of moonlit balls and debutante decadence

TOP LOOKS: A deep V-neck nude jumpsuit dripping in silver beading screamed Blake Lively; a pewter cocktail dress with a cage of gunmetal beading had a VMA edge; and light-pink tulle gowns with rain showers of silver beading felt Oscar-worthy.

Grosgrain and rhinestone belts, chunky deco cocktail rings, shoulder-skimming silver chain earrings. The accessory we could do with a little less of? Nipples. They're everywhere this season!

WHO WAS THERE: Despite all the A-list names who have worn her dresses, Packham's show was absent celebs. (Perhaps it was the early start time?) But an army of stylists showed in their place to call dibs on dresses for awards season.

WHAT WE THOUGHT: You might not know this British designer, but you've seen her dresses walk red carpets on everyone from Keira Knightley to Beyoncé to Miley Cyrus (remember that strapless champagne number from the Oscars?). For her first New York show, the designer said she was excited to escape London's edgy impulse -- and just concentrate on making beautiful dresses.

She accomplished her goal, though we thought the overall collection lacked the impact of previous outings. Still, there was much to love in the floaty hand-painted de Gournay silk gowns, the backless palest-pink tulle dresses, and nude-colored separates awash in playful bugle beading.

StyleList is your source for New York Fashion Week. Read our runway reviews and backstage beauty reports. Gawk at fashionable celebrities. Watch our video interviews with style personalities. Ruminate on it all with our roundups of Spring 2011 trends.