MAKEUP: Dick Page for Shiseido
HAIR: Guido Palau for Redken
SNAPSHOT: Minimalist Urban Warrior
THE SCOOP: Krakoff's unfussy aesthetic called for makeup with attitude, which Page gave the models in the form of a smudgy eye and natural lip, completed with clean, glowy skin. Palau created a roughed-up version of a basic chignon that complemented the pared-down clothes.
When Krakoff and Page discussed the makeup for the runway show, the focus was simple. "Really, we just wanted the girls to look cool," said Page. Rather than kooky stuff-that looks amazing but doesn't always translate to real life-seen on some runways, Page says these colors and textures "won't show up as a 'makeup look'." Instead, it's all about a halo of shimmery pewter cream shadow (a combo of dark olive-bronze and black prototypes that will launch in Fall 2011) smudged onto the eyelids, gradating from dark to light from lashes to brows. He finished with a slightly matte "soft mauve-y brown" lip and a dusting of translucent powder to tone down shine (Page, with typical British wit, said that during the light test before the actual show, the intense bulbs made the models look like they had "chip fat slapped on their foreheads." The loose powder was a necessary fix that provided a dewy, not matte, finish). "The clothes have an urban feel, so the hair needed to be up," said Palau. "It's got this blown-back, aerodynamic, futuristic-y feel. The shape is very important here." He started by applying mousse to damp hair, blow-dried it for a rough texture, then pulled everything into a ponytail at the back of the head (using his fingers instead of a brush to maximize the imperfect effect). He looped and pinned the hair into a bun and used spray wax to accentuate the sticking-out ends for a "little piecey, spiky texture." He finished it off with a blast of hair spray and a black cloth headband "to toughen up the look."
GET THE LOOK - MAKEUP: All products by Shiseido The Makeup. Cream eye shadows not yet available, Perfect Rouge Glowing Matte Lipstick in Wink, Translucent Loose Powder.
GET THE LOOK - HAIR: All products by Redken. Guts 10 Volume Spray Foam, Wax Blast 10, Forceful 23 Super Strength Finishing Spray