INSPIRATION: Light and dark, geometry and circles
TOP LOOKS: Skinny pants with decorative circle seams or panels of inlaid leather; short tunic dresses in mixed vintage kimono fabrics with circle seams and sheer panels at the shoulder; one-shoulder asymmetric-hem gown fashioned from tacked-together rounds of kimono silk; circle-neck silk slip dresses with spiral hems
ACCESSORIES: Booties by United Nude
WHO WAS THERE: Downtown denizens, friends of the label, Chinatown residents, and curious passersby
WHAT WE THOUGHT: For their spring showing, threeASFOUR staged a collaborative open-air spectacle in a strip of park outside their Lower East Side studio. It featured a video starring a few of yesterday's edgier models (Kristina Kruse, Kirsten Owen, Hannelore Knuts) and original music by Nico Muhly. The audience consisted of invitees -- retail, press, and friends of the house -- but there were also local residents and curious passersby. This was a true public assembly. When it came time to show the clothes, models walked out in garment bags, lined up in front of the gathered crowd, and shed their plastic shells. It might sound gimmicky -- diversionary, even -- but in fact, was simply creative atmosphere, background. The real focus of the show was the clothes, and they were beautiful (and also more wearable than any collection by the trio to date).
Short tunics in white or black kimono silk, with circle seaming and sheer shoulder panels, were terrific. The pants came straight and narrow, with just enough detail in the decorative seaming or inlaid leather panels to make them interesting without being over the top. A fabulous, asymmetrical gown pieced together from circles of white kimono silk would be divine on a beautiful and interesting red-carpet starlet who doesn't need to play it safe. Björk and Lady Gaga are obvious choices, but Tilda Swinton and Cate Blanchett also come to mind.
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