DESIGNER: Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein Collection

INSPIRATION: Less rigid and more fluid shapes; lightness

TOP LOOKS: Long, balsam cotton racer-back dresses with sexy back exposure; boxy black shirtdress worn by Lara Stone; pretty coral shift; cloudlike long-sleeve coat dress; pearl-colored dual-pleat ankle-length dress; louche layered look of cashmere vest, sleeveless T-shirt, and silk crepe pants

ACCESSORIES: Sleek sandals with wood platform and copper-and-Lucite heel and variations thereof

WHO WAS THERE: Katie Holmes, Julianne Moore, Kerry Washington, Isabel Lucas

Amid a jazzy soundtrack, Francisco Costa showed a collection that hit all the right notes. The brand is known for stark minimalism -- and fans of the house will still get that in spades -- but there was an airiness to this offering that felt very now. (To wit, a lot of designers have tried to imitate this level of sophisticated minimalism for spring, but in reality, it's Costa and the house of Calvin Klein that know how to do it properly.)

The slouchy deep V-neck dresses are surely going to attract the fashion intelligentsia. Layering, which is kind of unheard of in these parts, included a cashmere vest paired with a sheer T-shirt and cropped pants. These trousers also appeared in a boxy collar jacket, silk tee, and apron belt combo. A trio of breezy shift dresses in coral, midnight blue, and indigo broke up Costa's predominately black-and-white canvas because even stark minimalists crave color now and then.

But really, the designer featured so many wonderfully classic pieces to choose from, regardless of your sartorial style. This collection is solidly rooted in spring's terra firma.

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