Frisoni melds the exquisite artisan work of couture ateliers with natural materials like woven straw, wood, and feathers.
Of perhaps more importance to footwear fiends is the introduction of a sinuous heel shape called the New Wave.
In some designs, the heel's curves are echoed in a wavy cut on the side, giving the foot an undulating, seductive look.
The legendary studios of Lesage, Montex, and Lemarié brought a couture level of craftsmanship. For instance, Lemarié whipped up dreamy feather rosettes for a tea-dyed gazar pump.
Frisoni raved to StyleList about the new techniques used for the handbags.
"[The black-and-white Pilgrim clutch uses] a leaf of wood that is glued on fabric... it's so strong [and flexible] you can use it as a fabric. It's amazing!"
Frisoni also plucked inspiration from several radically different painters. The works of Jean Dubuffet and Gotthard Graubner pulled him toward vivid patches of color.
Charley Harper's stylized images of animals, meanwhile, led to chunky, ladybug- and turtle-shaped enamel handbag clasps.
Not all inspirations were so highfalutin, though. Fingering a purse's mesh of small wooden beads, Frisoni smiled and said, "You see, it's like the taxi drivers' seats." (In France, cabbies often use beaded seat cushions.)
The collection sways between soft, earthy shades and the occasional sizzle of bright color. For instance, a pair of open-toed pumps decorated with tiny wooden flowers has a hot-pink lining.
While the shapes may be new, such lush colors and embellishments are also true to the Roger Vivier line. To underscore this legacy, Saks displayed several vintage Vivier shoes as well, a rare treat for American eyes.
Such workmanship at least doubles the cost, with shoes ranging from $1,900 to $4,200; handbags start at $5,000 and soar up to $15,000.
After its first stop at Saks, the collection will travel to New York's Roger Vivier boutique, then on to Miami and Los Angeles before heading over to Europe and Asia. That is, if there are any accessories left -- once an item sells out, it's gone for good.