Many of us assume a deep conditioner is good for our hair, but Dean says some are loaded with too much protein and lack the moisture our strands really need.
"Hair is protein, and by adding more protein conditioner, it's strengthening the hair," says Dean. "But because there is no moisture, it also leaves hair nonflexible, which can cause more breakage in the end."
You may notice when applying conditioner to wet hair that the strands feels soft and smooth. But once the hair is styled and dried, it may still feel dry and brittle. This is because the conditioner lacks enough moisture.
"Think of lip balms," says Dean. "If you use one and your lips get more and more chapped with continued use, guess what's causing it? No moisture."
Dean says most companies believe deep conditioners should be loaded with proteins to "strengthen" your hair, but protein does not complement protein. "It becomes a vicious cycle," says Dean.
So does this mean everyone should avoid deep conditioners? No. But we should avoid those with a high percentage of protein, says Dean. This means checking the label. If it lists "protein" in the first half of the ingredient deck that means there is a high percentage of protein. If it falls toward the end of the list, there is less protein, which is good.
When looking for a deep conditioner, one product Dean recommends is the WEN Cleansing Conditioner and WEN Re-moist Hydrating Mask, which work for all hair types including color-treated hair.
If that's not an option, do your research and look for natural healthy ingredients. Your best bets are deep conditioners made from natural botanicals, extracts, essential oils, humectants, collagen, and shea butter.
If you're lacking luster, moisture or shine, go ahead and use a deep conditioner. Anyone with color-processed hair, chemically strengthened, or thermally damaged hair should use one too.
"Just remember," says Dean, "if you notice you're using a deep conditioner and your hair is getting dryer, you're not using the right one. Look for the right amount of protein."
Want more hair-care tips from Chaz Dean? Check out this video!
And find out the truth behind top hair myths.