Hair and makeup at Betsey Johnson Fall 2011. Photo: Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

Backstage at the Betsey Johnson Fall 2011 fashion show, a '20s flapper flirted with a touch of grunge, showcasing daringly bold makeup and an alternative rendition of Louise Brooks' iconic blunt angled bob.

MAKEUP: Charlotte Willer for Maybelline New York
HAIR: Peter Gray for Redken
NAILS: Nonie Creme for Butter LONDON
SNAPSHOT: Grunge Fairy Tale

THE SCOOP: Betsey Johnson's Fall 2011 "He Loves Me, He Loves Me Not" Valentine's Day collection was described by the designer as "Betsey goes flapper," with hair and makeup that brimmed with the same kind of whimsical confidence found in the retro-fabulous clothing.

Technicolor makeup shades created a masquerade mask of blue and gold blocking across the eyes, while equally bold red lips vied for attention. "I'm working with the same palette of colors Betsey wears, and making it even more bold and full of color -- if you can believe it!" said Willer.

Hair was one of the most creative visions we've seen all week; acrylic wigs were cut to blunt, angled perfection to each model's face, and then spray-painted in a gradation of gold so as to fake a permanent brilliant shine line. Lace fabric was then held over the gold and spray-painted black, to leave a sensually feminine imprint on hair.

"We twisted little rubber bands at the base of hair strands so that the hair pops and moves just like Betsey's extensions," said Gray. "The whole look adds levity to the show, you can't help but smile when you see the playfulness of the whole vision."

And according to Creme, the final burnished-olive nail was actually plan B. "Betsey asked for some grunge, so we first got crazy and dipped nails in black paint and let it run down the hands. But then after 10 or so glasses of Champagne, we decided it was overkill. Betsey asked for 'grunge fairy tale,' so we went with a dressed-up shade to accent the gold in the models' hair, and to represent the more sophisticated tone of the collection," Creme told StyleList.

GET THE LOOK MAKEUP: All makeup by Maybelline. Using Eye Studio Color Plush Silk Eyeshadow in Sapphire Stylist, which is due to debut in September, Willer blended deep blue across the lid and out toward the temples in a color block, highlighting with a dusting of gold on the inner corners. Falsies Mascara was applied in several layers, with cheeks kept bare and lips bathed in Red Haute lipstick, which will also debut in September.

Hair at Betsey Johnson Fall 2011. Jason Kempin, Getty Images for IMG

GET THE LOOK HAIR: All products by Redken. Black acrylic wigs were flatironed for the sleekest texture before strands were snipped into a blunt bang and angled bob. Gold spray-paint was applied in gradation down the back of the bob to create a high-shine illusion. Gray then aligned sheer black lace fabric straight over the gold paint, spraying black paint over it to leave the ornamental imprint of lace. Hairspray No. 12 made for moveable hold that swayed, while Lacquer No. 18 and the yet-to-debut Shine Spray created a glasslike finish.

GET THE LOOK NAILS: Creme custom-blended a brassy gold bronze shade to complement the gold tone found in hair. Look for the shade to debut next season as Wallis, named after '20s socialite Wallis Warfield, whose love affair with Prince Edward VIII prompted the Duke of Windsor to abdicate his throne in order to marry the American.