INSPIRATION: Pulled-together disco-era '70s
TOP LOOKS: Anise-brown velvet leopard-print dress; black satin dress with striped beaded bodice; long raccoon-fur coat; the opening look, specifically the little metallic copper leather jacket
ACCESSORIES: The leather-trimmed shoulder satchels were mostly classic, structured and sensible. Shoes included stacked-heel penny loafers and must-have shearling-trimmed wedge booties, already on every editor's to-buy list.
WHO WAS THERE: Editorial eccentrics Suzy Menkes and Bill Cunningham; recently appointed Vogue Paris editor Emmanuelle Alt; design guru Fabien Baron; Vogue Japan editor and blogger Anna Dello Russo.
WHAT WE THOUGHT: For a clue to Jacobs' MO this season, one need only look down. To the floor, that is. The runway was done up as a school gymnasium floor, in beat-up birchwood with colored-tape lines as if to delineate play zones. No, Jacobs didn't do workout gear, but the flooring could be seen as a reference to the designer's own high school days, during the disco era.
There was a pulled-together late-'70s, early-'80s vibe to the collection this time out. Personifying this Studio 54 feeling was sexed-up clubwear such as a slinky, reddish brown liquid-velvet leopard-print dress and the shiny copper leather blazer in the opening look. But there were also plenty of day looks: floaty, A-line silk skirts, wide-leg tweedy trouser suiting, fitted sweaters and silk blouses in the muted tones of the era.
There was some fantastic outerwear too. A classic, brown cotton belted trench came trimmed in gray fox fur. Another trench -- oversize this time -- was cut from an iridescent, army-green cotton (hello, wish list!). And the belted, full-length raccoon coat fit right in with all the fur out there this season.
There was so much to wear for all occasions in this collection. It might have been a trip down memory lane for Mr. Jacobs, but the clothes felt just right for right now.