Lived-in hair and smutty eyes created carefree sex appeal at Narciso Rodriguez. Photo: Grace Gold For StyleList

Backstage at the Narciso Rodriguez Fall 2011 fashion show, the makeup and hair was feminine yet moody, with a knotted unkempt ponytail that implied appearance wasn't a priority, but a sexily smoked eye that suggested otherwise.

MAKEUP: Dick Page for Shiseido
HAIR: Eugene Souleiman for Wella Professionals
NAILS: Deborah Lippmann
SNAPSHOT: Too Cool to Care

THE SCOOP: Narciso Rodriguez's Fall 2011 collection drew inspiration from architectural elements that contrasted color with neutrals to create graphic shapes, with hair and makeup that followed suite with bold character.

"I'm playing with the idea here of makeup going a bit south, a worn-in look. And it's just as much about the bits you don't do as the ones you do that make it interesting," Page told StyleList of the strong eye against bare-face look. The lash lines were lined top and bottom in purple blended over by black, with eye cream lined over the shadows for a creamy, smutty finish. Nude lips were further neutralized with concealer feathered over the lip line and blended outward.

A similiarly disheveled vibe deconstructed a classic ponytail. "She (the model) resembles the women photographed by Peter Lindbergh in the mid to late '80s. She is intelligent and not pretty in an obvious way, but her look is interesting," said Souleiman. The ponytail turned masculine with the tie of a knot, and hair around the face was mussed with fingertips and a blow-dryer for a roughness that suggested an intentionally uncaring attitude and aura of confidence.

For the first time, Rodriguez deviated from his standard neutral beige or sheer pink nail in favor of a slate gray. "He called me up at 3 o'clock yesterday, saying that he wanted to add strength and a tough edge to the beauty look with the nails," Lippmann told StyleList. "For the first time since I've been doing shows in the '90s, every designer I've worked with this week has wanted a strong nail color. I think it's because they're now seeing nails as an accessory that figures in strongly in their overall design aesthetic," added Lippmann.

GET THE LOOK - MAKEUP: All products by Shiseido. Keep the complexion bare, applying foundation only as needed in areas. Line top and bottom lash lines with Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Purple Dawn, topping with a strong line of Caviar. Then go back in with a liner brush and apply Benefiance Eye Cream over the shadows for a wet look. Keep lips neutral with Shimmering Rouge in Alabaster, followed with dabs of concealer on the natural lip line blended outward.

GET THE LOOK - HAIR: All products by Wella Professionals. Add texture by spraying Ocean Spritz into roots, and follow by blow-drying against the growth angle of the hair, massaging your fingers into the root for volume. Secure hair into a ponytail an inch below the crown, tying the end into a knot and securing with pins. Pull pieces of hair around the face to create a square shape, finishing with Texture Touch for a dirty look, and Shimmer Delight spray all over for shine and glossiness.

GET THE LOOK - NAILS: Lippmann custom-created a slate gray, which Rodriguez will name in coming days and will be sold come Fall 2011 under the brand's designer-collaboration series. Two coats were used for a rich finish.