DESIGNER: 3.1 Phillip Lim
INSPIRATION: Gangs, specifically the yakuza and Latin varieties
WHO WAS THERE: Teenage songstress Sky Ferreira, who has been cruising around with Teen Vogue; Richard Chai; Salman Rushdie; pretty ladies Olivia Chantecaille and Jen Brill
TOP LOOKS: Herringbone tweed motorcycle jacket with black neoprene sleeves and cognac leather pants; moss wool anorak with black fur patch pockets and leather sleeves; black jumpsuit with long beaded gold sleeves; navy patent tunic under double-breasted gray cardigan, over white slim pants; crisp maxi-trench with fur belt; shamrock jacket over cobalt silk top and black-and-white color-block pants
ACCESSORIES: Lim has expanded his empire into eyewear, jewelry, bags and shoes, all of which were in full effect. Models were shod in heavy leather mules, ankle boots and sandals in black, tan and nude. Bags were big or small: clutches or oversize soft briefcase styles.
WHAT WE THOUGHT: Gang or no gang, we are not scared to wear these clothes. The largely menswear-inspired collection was an aggressive play in texture (loved the neoprene in the mix) and oversize proportion. Loose-fitting inverted-pleat pants were the dominant silhouettes with some flowy and wide print (tattoo inspired) dresses.
Outerwear was the real star, though, from a trench to anoraks to a baseball jacket. Colors were just-picked fresh and aptly named "shamrock" and "pear." The result? Highly desirable. This was a strong collection for Lim, who conveyed an appreciation of fearless mixing and technical wear.