Photos: 2011 Dan Lecca

DESIGNER: Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein Collection

INSPIRATION: Costa always infuses architectural elements and technically sound fabrication into his Bauhausian garments.

TOP LOOKS: Simply glamorous shift and sheath dresses of lambskin and silk jacquard, respectively; camel funnel-neck dress with lambskin collar and sleeves; lots of voluminous coats

ACCESSORIES: A '90s-esque shoe silhouette, akin to a stacked loafer with a thick square heel; sandals with the same heel

WHO WAS THERE: The glam front row included Kate Bosworth, Zoe Saldana and Kerry Washington.

WHAT WE THOUGHT: Costa is a master of fabric manipulation. For fall that meant crafting the house's signature coats and dresses into structured statement pieces with couture-like precision. Alpaca was bonded to cashmere for sleek outerwear options, with the shoulders appearing rounded and prominent (almost to the point of seeming molded). The muted color palette was punctuated with mod metallic shift dresses, including the final look, worn by spokesmodel Lara Stone, that set the gold standard for the entire collection.