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DIY Design: How to Make a Grecian Goddess Top

vera wang bue cocktail dress j.mendel grey top orange shoes Giambattista Valli yellow gown spring 2011 drapes chiffon pleats

Vera Wang, J. Mendel and Giambattista Valli. Photo(s): Getty Images (3)

Goddess-like gowns, with their flowing chiffon and delicious pleats and gathers, have been all over the runway and red carpet lately. While most of us don't have reason to regularly toss on a drapey ballgown, we certainly can take a cue from haute fashion and make sweet little Grecian goddess-like tops to sashay around town. Here's how:

Chiffon Basics: While there's no denying that floaty silk chiffon is totally yummy and surprisingly sturdy, polyester chiffon is much more widely available, infinitely cheaper, easy to iron into crisp pleats, and overall easier to care for (no dry cleaning required). Whether silk or polyester, chiffon definitely gets a bad rap when it comes to sewing because of its slippery, sinuous qualities. Fortunately, many expert sewers have developed a slew of tips for taming this bad-girl textile, such as sandwiching fabric between two layers of tissue paper before cutting, so that it doesn't slide around so much. (Chiffon is also available in other fibers like cotton or rayon.)

Pattern Picks: When you choose a pattern, no matter how tantalizing the fashion illustration, be sure to check the back of the pattern envelope for fabric suggestions to make sure that chiffon or a similar fabric is included. Patterns are drafted for specific fabrics and it is important to make sure that your material will work with the pattern. Check with your fabric store clerk before substituting chiffon for another fabric suggestion. For instance, georgette is a similar fabric that is less fragile than chiffon and often can be used interchangeably. For beginners, go with patterns with simple lines and seams. Long sleeve versions are just as floaty and sexy, but can prettily camouflage less than perfect biceps.

Pleats and tucks: Of course, who of us can resist all those gorgeous pleats and tucks we see on the runways? I would never discourage a sewer from tackling a beautifully pleated or tucked blouse pattern, but I would suggest in those cases relying more on hand- than machine-sewing, as you'll have more control of the fabric. With some basic pattern drafting, you can even add pleating and tucking to a style you love. In fact, you can also send a piece of fabric to have the entire swathe pleated before sewing.

Hem and seams: Because chiffon is fragile and frays easily, you will want to take particular care with finishes. Cut fabric on the bias whenever possible to add curve-hugging shape and eliminate fraying. Enclosed French seams will protect raw edges from unraveling, and baby hems and hand-rolled hems will finish this delicate fabric nicely. Lining can be complicated, so either underline with a matching or nude-hued organza (just remember this will give more structure and make it less floaty) or wear a matching or nude-colored tank under your pretty creation. Now you're ready to go Goddess!

For more DIY Design columns, click here.

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How to Make a Classic Trench Coat with DIY Design

kim kardashian trench coat

From left: Kate Moss, Kiera Knightley and Kim Kardashian in their trenches. Splash News (2) | Fred Duval, FilmMagic


When I was first getting back into sewing, I cut out an inspiration shot of a beautiful tweed trench coat. Most people start sewing with pajama pants. Not me! My time, patience and a couple of wrong turns (backwards sleeves that had to be ripped out and re-sewn correctly) were rewarded with a gorgeous coat that I always get compliments on. Which proves my point: Anything is possible to sew if you follow the directions carefully. Here's how to make your own classic trench:

Choose your pattern: While a trench coat may not be the most obvious beginner sewing project, consider some of the pluses. Because a coat is worn over other garments, fitting is easier because it can be looser. Measure yourself carefully, make sure you have enough ease in the hips, and when in doubt, go a size larger in your pattern. Pick a pattern with simpler lines and fewer details for your first trench coat. Also, if you are still feeling intimidated, remember a coat is constructed much like a jacket, but is just longer and made with heavier material.

Fabric matters: Speaking of material, trench coats, which were first popularized in World War I, are often traditionally made with gabardine. (Fun fact: Burberry and Aquascutum both claim to have invented the trench coat, but Thomas Burberry invented gabardine.) Still, you have lots of options with fabric. The key is to stick with stiffer, coating textiles such as cotton twills, midweight wools, silks and even upholstery fabrics. Do not fall in love with a lightweight fabric under any circumstances. It just won't hold up to being the stuff of coats.

Reinforcements: Even with sturdy material, there are techniques and tools that will give shape and structure to the trench. Underlining, which is a fabric that is sewn to the fashion fabric, so that the two pieces are treated as one, can add insulation. You can also reinforce your entire swathe of fabric with fusible before cutting it out. (With both underlining and fusible, you will want to line the coat.) Interfacing, whether sew-in or fusible will add even more structure to the collar, lapels and other parts of the coat and is generally part of the pattern instructions. .

Details, details: While the main body of the coat is pretty straightforward, the details are what really make a trench coat. Braided leather or leather-look buttons add authenticity. You'll also learn how to make a belt for the waist, cuff straps for the sleeves (tortoise-shell-look buckles are a nice touch), and shoulder tabs. Top stitching, a decorative stitch often seen on trench coats, can turn seam lines into design details. This is where the real fun begins!

For past DIY Design columns, click here. Next up? Sewing Grecian goddess pleats and gathers.

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DIY Design: How to Embellish a Scarf With Beads or Fringe

embellished scarves embellish a scarf

Spring 2011 runway looks with embellished scarves were seen at, from left, Emilio Pucci, Fendi and Matthew Williamson. Photos: Christophe Simon, AFP / Getty Images | Karl Prouse, Catwalking / Getty Images


Nothing says boho chic like the relaxed elegance of a beaded or fringed scarf. And the good news is that this is one of the quickest and easiest accessories to make. Here's how:

Scarves 101: For starters, you can either create your own scarf from a favorite material or you can embellish a scarf that you already own. In either case, you should pick a fabric that has a nice drape. Silk is a perennial favorite, but lightweight cottons and woolens will work just as well. But don't choose a textile that is too fragile or loosely woven, as it won't be able to support the embellishment.

Stitching up a scarf: Of course, the thrill of making your own scarf is that it will be 100 percent unique. A yard of material is a good rule of thumb for most scarves. The easiest way is to cut a fabric to the dimensions you desire (adding 0.5 inch all around for hem allowance) and then machine-stitch the edges with a baby hem. But for a prettier designer finish, try a hand-rolled hem. First, machine-stitch a 0.25-inch allowance on the edges, trim, then "roll" the hem over the stitching line and use a slip stitch to secure. This takes more time and patience, but it's worth it.

Ladies, choose your embellishment: There's no end to the beads you can find, particularly if you are searching online. You can attach beads singly along the hem or create a fringe. You can even find beads that are specifically designed to be the last bead on a strand. However, the easiest method for adding bead fringe is to buy bead fringe trim, which is strands of beads attached to a ribbon. You just sew the ribbon along the scarf edge.

Other types of fringe trim are also available in an infinite number of styles, shapes and sizes, even feather fringe! (Be sure to measure your scarf before buying fringe and add a tad extra length; you will need more than you think.) To attach, place fringe tape on scarf edge and carefully machine-stitch, keeping the trim flat and clear of the needle.

Enjoy living on the fringe!

For more "DIY Design" columns, click here. Next week: Sew a classic trench coat for spring.

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Maxi Skirts Spring 2011: How to Make Your Own With DIY Designs

Maxiskirts Spring 2011 How to Make Your Own DIY Designs

Olivia Palermo at the Matthew Williamson show during London Fashion Week and a look from Lanvin's Spring 2011 collection. Photos: Getty (2)

Maxi skirts are back in a big way for Spring 2011, and while floor-length dresses are everywhere in stores, their skirty counterparts are not as easy to find. Fret not. You can whip up one of these ground-grazing looks in no time, for a fraction of the cost of a ready-to-wear version, and be full-on stylish for spring and summer. Here's how:

Who's got the pattern? While maxi skirts, with their easygoing boho chic, are simple to sew, you may have a bit of trouble finding the right pattern. For the most authentic looks, start with '70s vintage patterns. You can also modify a more common ankle-length skirt pattern to make it truly maxi. Start with a long-skirt pattern, preferably a simple A-line style. (All of the major pattern companies carry this perennial style.) Lay out your front and back pattern pieces and tape tracing paper to the bottom of each. Extend the side seams by drawing them to the desired length, then drafting the new hem.

Fabric finds: Graphic and solid cotton jerseys are a popular fabrication this spring, and truthfully that's not a fabric you will find listed as a suggestion on the back of most long-skirt-pattern envelopes. Don't let that stop you. As long as the pattern recommends slinky textiles (such as georgette, lightweight crepe, lightweight faille, challis) you are safe to use drapey cotton knits as well. Just remember that jersey knits need less ease, so you may need to narrow the hip width on the pattern. Another plus with jersey fabrics: There's no hemming needed, so you can subtract the hem allowance. P.S. If you are extending the length of your skirt, be sure to get some extra fabric (a half yard, at least).

Patternless sewing: I know what you're thinking: It's just basically a big, long tube. How hard can it be to make a one of these without a pattern? Well, it's true that's there's not much to fitting a maxi skirt, so drafting your own pattern isn't that hard, if you are willing to overlook some of the finer points of construction. Check out this two-in-one skirt project for a maxi skirt that can do double duty as a dress, a lace maxi skirt how-to video and fabulous tutorial. Many, like you, have figured out it isn't that hard, and you'll find no shortage of patternless, floor-sweeping skirt projects online. Don't be surprised if you make more than one!

For more "DIY Design" columns, click here. Next week: how to embellish a scarf with beads or fringe.

Also be sure to check out our new Maxi Skirt Mondays feature.

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Lace Dresses Ruled at the Oscars: Make Your Own With DIY Design

lace dresses oscars

Jason Merritt, Getty Images | Jeffrey Mayer, WireImage


Lace dresses
dominated this year's Oscars ceremony. Feminine and flirty frocks came down the red carpet in droves, from Mila Kunis in Elie Saab Couture to Scarlett Johansson in Dolce & Gabbana to Hailee Steinfeld and Halle Berry in Marchesa. Another example: Tough-talking Melissa Leo won Best Supporting Actress in Marc Bouwer. As fragile as the material may look on these heavy fashion hitters, sewing lace is simpler that you might think. Here's how:

Just the lace: There are three main types of lace: Chantilly (a delicate floral lace), Alençon (a needlepoint lace) and guipure (a firm, stiff lace with large motifs, like Melissa Leo's dress). Lace can range from very inexpensive to shockingly expensive. With each type, you will want to take special care in cutting and sewing and use techniques that are specific to the type of lace you are working with. Buy a little extra lace to help with matching pattern pieces; a half-yard is a good rule of thumb. For pricey laces, bring your pattern pieces and lay them out on fabric at the store to make sure you get exactly enough.

Lacey sewing basics: With a bit of knowledge and care, you can sew with lace like an expert. Raw edges will need to be finished to prevent raveling: You can either use a loose machine zigzag stitch or hand-roll and finish edges with an overcast stitch. Lay out pattern pieces so that motifs are matching and cut out around the motifs. To stitch together invisibly, use an appliqué technique by overlapping sections with motifs matching. Pin, baste, then hand- or machine-sew by lowering your feed dogs and stitching freestyle along overlapping motif lines to join. Trim excess lace along the appliqué lines.

Lace tricks: To sew a lace overlay on a garment so that the lace is layered on top of another fabric, as with Scarlett Johansson's Oscar gown, you will need to cut out both the fashion fabric and the lace with the same pattern piece. Then baste them together and sew as one piece of fabric. If you really want to get clever, you can cut out the fabric behind the lace for a peekaboo effect, like Johansson's décolletage. You can also add lace inserts as accents in a garment, even one of your ready-to-wear blouses. Really, it is completely possible to go crazy with lace once you get going.

For more "DIY Design" columns, click here. Next week, sew up a maxi-skirt and be on-trend for Spring 2011!

And check out the video below for a full Oscars fashion recap:

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