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Sensitive Skin: How to Get the Red Out

Woman with rosacea

Reduce redness with these skin care products and expert advice. Photo: Alamy

From scrubs to cleansing brushes and antiaging retinoid treatments, today's complexions are often put through demanding paces to achieve that most prized, glowing complexion.

Yet our skin has never looked more red, or ached with more sensitivity.

And it's no coincidence. According to experts, all of those popular high-tech potions and procedures contribute to a gradual wearing down of the outer layers of skin, leading to an uptick in the number of people who suffer from continual redness and sensitivity issues.

"I am seeing an increased number of patients in my practice with stressed out skin from overexfoliation. In these cases, exfoliation can be too much of a good thing," says Washington, D.C., dermatologist Elizabeth Tanzi.

Facial tools that are too aggressive, scrubs with jagged granules and simply treating skin too often are all common causes of redness. Yet the sneakiest trigger is overlayering too many ingredients on the skin -- which is all too easy to do with the proliferation of moisturizers and serums that seemingly pack everything in but the kitchen sink, says Dr. Anne Chapas, assistant clinical professor at New York University School of Medicine.

"Anyone can have sensitive skin after combining products with similar irritation profiles, or just using too many products in general. The big culprits are Retin A and retinol, alpha hydroxy and beta hydroxy acids and irritating fragrance or preservatives," says Chapas.

If your skin is flushing red with sensitivity, you can stage an intervention by taking a week off from using exfoliating products like cleansing brushes and retinol. Use a mild cleanser like Cetaphil and a fragrance-free moisturizer during this "detox" time.

Then slowly introduce your favorite products back to your routine, one at a time, and taking careful note if you react to any of them. If so, back off use. It's actually better for you in the long term, advises Chapas.

"It's important to realize that whatever gains can be made by exfoliating or using a great product are going to be nullified if the skin is in a constant state of stress, which can actually accelerate the aging process, or make acne worse," says Chapas.

Yikes. You need not tell us twice.

Yet the beauty industry has taken notice of all our overzealous scrubbing and treating, with a plethora of products created solely to ease the redness and sensitivity our ambitious skin-care routines have left behind.

When StyleList caught up with Bare Escentuals CEO Leslie Blodgett at a QVC press event recently, she divulged that the brand's next big launch, coming in August, will be a skin cream formulated to target red skin.

"Red skin is an issue our customers have told us is a chief concern for them," Blodgett told StyleList. "We want to provide not just Bare Minerals to minimize it, but a skin-care solution as well."

But a word of caution: First, you'll want to determine if the redness you're experiencing is due to sensitivity or the medical condition rosacea.

Affecting over 16 million Americans, rosacea is marked by clusters of small bumps, spidery facial veins and redness localized to the center nose, inner cheeks and chin. On the other hand, classic sensitivity redness can be found anywhere on the face, and is not automatically accompanied by bumps or veins.

Whether you have rosacea or sensitivity, you may find relief from the products in the gallery below -- but it's important to visit a dermatologist if you suspect rosacea as a possibility, as the condition can grow more stubborn and severe over time without the guided treatment of an expert.

Check out celebrity makeup artist Eve Pearl's how-to video on applying foundation and eliminating rosacea.

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    Why You Should Use Oil In Your Hair

    shiny hair

    Hesitant about using oil on your hair? Check out these pro tips. Photo: Rayan McVay, Getty Images

    Rarely does one beloved beauty secret cross the breadth of so many centuries, countries, cultures and ethnicities as the use of oil on hair.

    With effects that run the gamut from conditioning and adding shine to treating dandruff and stimulating strand growth, oils are truly the workhorse of hair care products.

    While the nutrient-rich substance fell out of favor in recent times in part due to a general lack of knowledge of how to use it without weighing down hair, oils are now enjoying a popular resurgence as the rise of the green beauty category brings the ancient treatment back to the spotlight.

    "Oils are not only incredibly beneficial to all hair types, but they have a ritualistic quality to them that many find spiritually soothing," says Horst Rechelbacher, founder of both Aveda and Intelligent Nutrients, a certified organic beauty line that is entirely based on plant ingredients.

    Two oils of the moment -- argan and monoi -- are the current 'it' girls of the industry, attracting attention and fame, and dedicated legions of fans. Argan oil is the star ingredient of the ubiquitous Moroccanoil brand, and monoi takes center stage in a new line launching by Carol's Daughter.

    "The romance of monoi is what hooked me first, its tradition and the process by which it is made. The second thing was its scent," says Carol's Daughter founder Lisa Price, of the oil that is created by soaking Tahitian gardenias in coconut oil. "The goal became, 'How do we prepare this so that we can marry the ancient tradition with modern-day efficacy?'"

    But before you dive into the healthy hair benefits of oil, it's vital that you know how to apply it in the right way to best benefit your hair. Our tips and tricks below cover all textures and types -- and even the most baby-fine heads of hair.

    Know the three types of cosmetic oils and their weight. Fatty oils like castor and shea butter have large molecular weight and sit on the surface of hair, while semi-fatty oils like sweet almond, avocado and sunflower are absorbed more readily, and work for most hair types. Dry oils like grape seed, coconut and evening primrose are the lightest, and seemingly disappear into the hair without any residue on even fine textures, says natural beauty expert Julie Gabriel, who will publish Oleotherapy: Reveal the Powerful Rejuvenation Benefits of 100 Oils for your Health, Beauty and Wellbeing in November 2011.

    Always massage oil into the scalp. The most common mistake people make is that they apply oil to the ends of hair only. "Oils help regulate sebum production in the scalp much in the same way that face oils are helpful to normalize sebum production in the skin," says Gabriel. Fine hair can apply oil only to the scalp, while medium to thick types can also apply the oil to the mid-shaft and down. Coarse types can massage the oil from the scalp all the way to the ends.

    The goof-proof choice for any hair type is jojoba oil. A plant that is indigenous to the southwest, jojoba is the lightest of all cosmetic oils, and absorbs weightlessly. If you have super-fine hair, you can even look for clarified jojoba, which takes it even a step lighter. "Jojoba is a liquid wax, and you can clarify it and take some of the wax out of it to make it even lighter than it already is," says Rechelbacher.

    Argan oil is best for medium to thick hair. While everyone is reaching for argan these days, Rechelbacher says that the exotically fragrant oil is more suited to thicker heads of hair. "Argan is sticky, and can be hard to get out of fine hair. It's like olive oil -- you'll need to shampoo two or three times to fully rinse it out, or else you'll get build-up." Yet for richer locks, argan can strike the perfect balance of shine, scent and manageability.

    To get the benefits without any weight, apply oil to dry hair. If you don't want to keep oil in your hair, try this treatment recommended by Rechelbacher. On completely dry hair, first work oil into the ends, and then slowly massage into the scalp, deeply inhaling the aromatic experience for relaxation. Gently brush hair from scalp to ends for five minutes, and allow the oil to sit for 15 to 20 minutes. Then hop in the shower and wash it out. "In most cases, you won't even have to follow up with a conditioner unless you're very coarse. Your hair will feel like silk," says Rechelbacher.

    Castor oil is a natural growth treatment. Castor oil is believed to stimulate and strengthen hair growth, but Gabriel says that it's too heavy to use on hair. Instead, you can apply the vegetable oil with a Q-tip to sparse eyebrows and lashes at bedtime to encourage thicker, healthier and faster growth. Think of it as nature's Latisse.

    Warm oil is a fix-it for scalp problems. Since putting oil on the scalp encourages the skin to rebalance itself, adding warmth will also allow nutrients to penetrate more deeply. Gabriel says that massaging your choice of oil into the scalp is helpful for dry dandruff, non-hormonal hair loss and itchy scalps. Simply nuke a small amount of oil in the microwave, and then enjoy a soothing fingertip massage in small circles around the scalp.

    How often you should use oil depends on how often you wash. Fine and oily hair types that wash daily, or close to that, can consider using an deep oil treatment weekly. Textured and coarse hair types that wash weekly or bi-weekly will likely enjoy the best results with an oil treatment applied once a month. The risk of applying oil too often is that it will build up in the scalp and weigh hair down, unless it has been shampooed sufficiently between applications.

    Beware of cheapened oils. Manufacturers are notorious for flooding products with silicones and petrochemicals, and including only minute amounts of oil, says Gabriel. Be sure to read ingredient labels to confirm that you're getting the real deal -- which should be a listing of various oils. Rechelbacher and other vetted natural experts often use essential oils in their mixes, as it's a more hygienic choice that diminishes the chance of bacteria growth. The addition of seeds and antioxidants is an indication of top-notch blending that will allow the oils to perform even better.

    If pregnant, don't use nut oils. Oils derived from nuts like peanuts and pine nuts can be potentially hazardous to pregnant women. "Oils from nuts go rancid the quickest, and you don't want to apply rancid oil if you're pregnant. If in doubt, smell it. If it doesn't smell right or is off, don't use it," says Rechelbacher.

    It's clear that oils are well worth the effort -- but can the same be said for the clampless curling irons that are all the rage right now? StyleList investigates.

    Comments 45

    Wrap Your Head Around This: Are Clampless Curling Irons Worth the Hype?

    From left to right: Writer Grace Gold with hair curled using a traditional curling iron and wavy hair styled with a clampless curling iron. Photos Courtesy of Grace Gold

    Hair trends may fly in and out of style in seconds, but hair tools tend to have longevity.

    Chances are, that first flat iron you fried your hair with in your teenage search for shampoo commercial shine and sleekness doesn't look too different from the flat iron currently cord-wrapped and stored in your bathroom cabinet.

    Yet a new tool has seemingly taken over the industry in recent months: the clampless conical curling iron. From blogs to fashion glossies and the shelf at the local beauty supply store,these baton-like wands are everywhere you look.

    But I wondered: Are conical curlers just marketing hype, or do they really perform that much differently from traditional curling irons? And is it worth buying one if you already have a curling iron at home?

    After picking up the Sedu Revolution Professional Clipless Curling Iron and feeling more like I was about to engage in a medieval joust than curl my hair, I decided to ask some leading stylists for tips on how to put this curious new tool to the test.

    Basically, it all comes down to what look you want to achieve. Clipless curling irons make softer, beachy waves a cinch, while a traditional iron is going to more easily give you a defined, ringlet type of curl.

    I photographed my different looks, which I think show the textural difference in results from the two types of irons. However, I want to make it clear that I'm not a professional stylist, but merely just another girl who is trying to coax my hair to do things it doesn't naturally do -- and the photos are my first attempts.

    So, just how do you use these things, and what are some tips and tricks to leaping over the learning curve, and instantly rocking results like a pro? Read on to find out -- and be sure not to miss our stylists' secret tricks to turning your traditional iron into a clipless version for free.

    Practice with the iron unplugged first. The most damaging aspect of hair tools is not the heat itself, but the cumulative effect of passing a hot iron through the same strands multiple times. Practice your movements on a cold barrel first, so that you get the hang of how to hold the tool and wrap the hair before you're actually working with heat, advises stylist Adam Campbell of LA's Prive Salon.

    Point down and wrap. The key move is to hold the clampless iron vertically, facing down. Then wrap a small section of hair around the base, and continue to wrap outwards to the tip. Don't wrap the hair over and on top of itself; make sure every part touches the iron, including the ends. Hold for five seconds, and release. "The main benefit of using a clampless curling iron is to produce a perfect curl from roots to ends without 'fish hooks,' which are those unattractive kinky, frizzy ends that a traditional curling iron can produce," says Amy Ambramite, creative director at Chicago's Maxine Salon.

    A protective glove is included for a reason. Chalk it up to my impatience with reading directions -- I first decided to embark on this experiment without taking the time to put on the heat glove that accompanied my Sedu iron. Bad, bad idea. After my fourth or fifth crazy woman cuss, I finally surrendered and put the glove on. Wow! Now that I was no longer burning my hand off, wrapping a section around the iron and holding it in place to set was as easy as pie. If purchasing a clampless curler, check to make sure it comes with that essential heat resistant glove. Not all models do.

    Become ambidextrous. I always hold my hair dryer with my dominant right hand. After stubbornly trying to do the same with the clipless iron because I didn't want to swap the glove (since, you know, it takes so long to switch hands), I finally acquiesced to the fact that this is one tool that requires a switch up. Fortunately, the styling motion requires minimal dexterity. Simply hold the iron with the hand that corresponds with each side, and do the wrapping work with the opposite hand. I found that it's well worth the effort, as you'll hit that quality wave on the first try using this method.

    Size and grasp determine wave. For subtle and free-flowing beach waves, use longer sections -- about two to three inches -- and wrap slightly loose around the barrel. For a more pronounced wave and richer texture, use a smaller one inch section, and wrap the hair a bit more tightly around the iron, instructs Adrian Castillo of LA's Sally Hershberger salon.

    Now, beachy waves were certainly not invented with the advent of the clipless iron; stylists have long achieved the look with traditional curling irons, too.

    If purchasing a clipless iron isn't in your budget right now, you can still use some savvy stylist tricks to get the same look with a traditional curling iron that you may already have.

    Simply keep the clamp on your iron down, and wrap the hair around the closed barrel as you normally would with a clampless version, says Campbell. Just be careful to keep the wrap looser, or else you'll end up with the indents of the clamp in your hair.

    You can alternately try opening the clamp, and winding your section around the barrel, without closing the clamp, suggests Castillo. It's a little tricky to start, but you'll get the hang of it with some practice, and it's a helpful option to consider if caught in a pinch without a conical iron.

    Lastly, Abramite says you can even transform a curling iron that you're no longer using into the new generation version. "Save yourself some cash, and create your own clampless curling iron by removing the clamp on a traditional iron with a screwdriver!" says Abramite.

    This stylist speaks my language.

    But if you want the convenience and instant ease of the new clampless curling irons, excellent options are available at all price points.

    If you're looking to invest, the $120 Sedu Revolution one inch barrel version that I used in the pictured photo features ceramic heat technology, adjustable heat settings and a polished barrel that gave me the glossiest and softest waves of all the irons I tried.

    For a bargain buy, Infiniti by Conair You Curl can be found online from anywhere from $29 to $39, and also has ceramic technology and a graduated conical shape that gives waves a more natural looking texture and form. Another competitive buy is the $29.99 Remington T-Studio Ceramic Pearl Professional Curling Wand, which is adorably designed in a frosty shade of pink to boot.

    (Note: the traditional curling iron photo was taken after use with the $29.95 Cricket Friction Free Tourmaline Ceramic Curling Iron.)

    With all these options to choose from, beach waves no longer need be the exclusive domain of Victoria's Secret models. Sexy is yours to have, too!

    Think good hair days are impossible, come summer? Not so -- check out these tried and true tips for calling a truce with your strands this season.

    Can you color your hair with eye shadow? This colorist does it.

    Comments 41

    Strip Tease: Finally a Pain-Free Bikini Wax

    Bikini

    The lowdown on a pain-free bikini wax. Photo: Getty Images

    They may say that death and taxes are the only guarantees in life, but women know the electric jolts of pain during a bikini wax fare a close third.

    So when a dainty little box crossed my desk cheerfully promising an "ouchless 'down there' hair removal" experience while waxing, my eyebrow raised in both intrigue and doubt.

    Developed by anesthesiologist Dr. Edna Ma at St. John's Hospital in Santa Monica, the BareEase & Cream kit includes a Lidocaine-based numbing cream and -- get ready for this -- an accompanying pink latex thong.

    Instructions are to apply a thin layer of the aloe and jojoba-infused blend to the area that will be waxed 30 to 45 minutes before your treatment, and then to slip on the protective pepto-colored thong while going about your business -- until it's time to take care of business.

    "The latex panty works in two ways: To keep your clothes mess-free and to segregate the cream from air, allowing for maximum absorption of the numbing cream into the bikini area," Dr. Ma tells me, adding that she plans to develop a non-latex version in the near future for people allergic to the stretchy material.

    With the maximum four percent concentration of Lidocaine that is legally allowed to be sold over the counter contained in the blend, the name of the ingredient instantly jogged memories of the much-publicized horror story a few years back of a young woman who died of toxicity after a spa had her prep for a laser hair removal treatment by slathering Lidocaine cream all over both of her legs.

    I relayed my safety concerns to the board-certified doctor, who says the amount of Lidocaine contained in the .3 ounce tube is completely safe.

    "It all comes down to dosage. You can overdose on almost any given medication -- including vitamins and Tylenol -- with a high enough dose. I've intentionally packaged the cream in a small, single-use quantity so that if you ate, drank or ingested the entire tube, you would be well within the safety limits of the medication," says Ma.

    While I had no plans of making a meal out of the concoction, I did want to put it to the test.

    So off I went with Lidocaine and latex in tow to New York's Stark Waxing Studio, where I bravely booked a Brazilian wax -- the 'everything off' from front to back, save for an optional 'landing strip' concept that the J Sisters first brought stateside years ago.

    Yes, that means the cream is entirely safe to put directly on and around your lady parts. And as such, I decided to go the full monty (pun intended) to really give the bold claims a true run for the money.

    Following the instructions, I spread the light lotion-like anesthetic all over the areas that were to be treated, making sure to leave behind a thin film of the odorless, teal-colored preparation. I then sealed the deal with the snug latex thong, and took off for my appointment feeling like I had slipped into a day in the life of Samantha Jones.

    The immediate mushy feeling of latex married to cream made me gingerly take wide steps, like a three-year-old wearing Pull-Ups a size too big. As I walked down the busy sidewalk of Ninth Avenue with taxis honking in the background and pedestrians scurrying through the crosswalks, I was acutely aware of anyone who so much as looked my way -- and I wondered if it was because they knew what naughty experiment I was up to.

    Thankfully, the smooshy sensation dissipated after about five minutes, and I once again regained my confident stride -- and dignity. The instructions say that you may feel a mild tingling sensation as the active ingredient goes to work, but I felt nothing - and wondered if that meant the product was doing anything at all.

    After I checked in at the waxing studio, I made a beeline to the ladies room to wipe off what remained of the cream, and to discreetly dispose of the protective thong cover, which rolled down like a clammy swimsuit bottom.

    The moment of truth had arrived.

    After I laid back on the table and esthetician Lura Jones spread sticky seaweed green French wax on my skin, I could feel the enveloping warmth, and instantly assumed confirmation that the cream hadn't worked. I felt my hopes drop, and the wax hadn't even begun.

    Then Jones gently pulled my skin taut, lifting the edge of one of the pieces of wax with her other hand -- and I instinctively braced for the slash of pain to come right before she let 'er rip.

    Except there was no pain.

    And immediately after, another rip. And again, no pain!

    As she drew closer to more sensitive areas, I kept anticipating that the next section would register that familiar 'ouch!' and ache, but I was only met with what could be described as a faint tinge of prickles at worst. It was by leaps and bounds the most manageable wax of my life.

    Jones suggested that next time I come in with one side numbed, and one side untreated, to truly feel the difference in pain level. I thought this sounded like an idea that someone who isn't getting waxed would have.

    As ethereal as my experience was, there's one drawback: The kit costs $25, and is made for one application. My realistic side tried to nudge Dr. Ma to give a little, to perhaps relinquish that any extra cream could be capped shut and used a second time. However, the doctor was adamant that the kit was only safe and sanitary for a single use.

    So here's what it comes down to: Is a pain-free bikini wax worth an additional $25 to you?

    Let's just say I'm tossing those extra pennies into the piggy bank from here on in.

    And for the latest news on another intimate area, check out our investigation of the new 24-hour rapid recovery breast augmentation.

    Comments 9

    Fool-Proof Ways to Wear Summer Makeup Trends

    orange lipstick

    Bold, orange lips at Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring 2011. Photo: ImaxTree

    Those fabulous models who sashay down the runways in the season's hottest makeup trends have the unfair advantage of an entourage of the world's best makeup and hair experts to style them to designer perfection.

    Because, let's face it -- if any of us tried to pull off this summer's hair-raising styles or orange burst lips, we'd likely just end up looking like fools at the pool.

    But I wasn't about to let the models have all the fun.

    I asked two of the beauty industry's biggest makeup trend influencers -- Fashion Week mainstay Pat McGrath and Avon Global Creative Color Director Jillian Dempsey -- for tips on how to rock this season's biggest trends with savvy.

    You'll need just one thing to wear these looks, and it's free: a strong stroke of confidence. There's little room for shrinking violets among this kind of femme fatale vibe.

    "This summer is all about the dangerous, sexy woman. It's a super glamorous look," says McGrath, who fittingly designed an "Animalier" makeup collection for Dolce & Gabbana this season, complete with leopard print bronzer and a fiery-orange lipstick bullet. Meow!

    Here's how to temper that hotness and make it your own.

    Craving orange? Dab it on. The citrus lipstick trend that burst on the runways of Marc by Marc Jacobs and Isaac Mizrahi and quickly spread to celebs like Chloë Sevigny can look jolting and out of place at the beach when applied straight from the tube. "To still enjoy that flash of color without the painted-on consistency of lipstick, use your finger to dab the lip color onto your lips. It'll look more breathable," McGrath tells StyleList.

    Popsicle lips are always a safe bet. Another easy way to wear brilliantly fun shades is to put down the lipstick and instead pick up a moisturizing, non-shimmer lip gloss that preferably contains cushioning nutrients like Vitamin E and ceramides. "Your lips should look like you've just had a popsicle. It's a real easy and approachable way to wear the bold lip trend," advises Dempsey. The most flattering shade is a sheer strawberry, which wears equally well for cold and warm toned beauties.

    bold brows

    Bold Brows at Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2011. Photo: PATRICK KOVARIK/AFP/Getty Images

    For bold brows, use more than one color. The exaggerated brows at Ann Demeulemeester and Rick Owens kicked off a bold brow frenzy that had fashionistas painting brows dark and full, à la Elizabeth Taylor. Yet darkened brows can look especially harsh under the bright sunshine. McGrath says the solution is to use a more natural approach. "Use powder for a softer look, and don't be afraid to blend more than one color into your brows. Brow hair is not one flat color - that's what makes it look inauthentic," says McGrath. A full brow paired with a splash of color on the lips can look effortlessly movie star chic.

    Smoke with bronze. Smoky, smutty eyes roamed the Vivienne Tam and Diane Von Furstenberg runways, but loads of black kohl are practically a guaranteed disaster when mixed with sun, sweat and sand. Instead, slip on sex appeal with a soft shimmer bronze to line. "Bronze is a forgiving way to wear smoky eyes, and it looks amazing on everyone," says Dempsey. I'm loving the Professional Eye Smokifier in Bronze that Dempsey designed this season, which comes with a stiff sponge smudge brush tip and champagne shimmer finish that strokes on beautifully as a cat's eye.

    Spike your lashes, don't spider. Tammy Faye would be proud; celebrities like Nicki Minaj and runways like Zac Posen's have been strutting some serious spider lashes. If you love yourself some mascara, McGrath says to first carefully comb through lashes with a lengthening formula to separate. Then go back and 'back comb" by gently holding the tip against the mid-shaft of the lash and gently moving a downward movement to deposit more volume. "The old way of doing spider lashes was hard and penciled looking. Now the way to do it looks fresh and unexpected," says McGrath. Keep a bare eye, save for a touch of concealer and the mascara to maximize the eye-opening effect.

    Blot, don't add powder. As the natural oils in your skin come to the surface during the day, it's inevitable that any makeup look you wear will eventually need a touch-up. But during the summer, it's essential that you don't add powder again after your initial setting, or else risk creating a cakey finish that looks unnatural and screams 'makeup!' from yards away. "Blotting sheets are a definite must to keep in your bag during the summer," says Dempsey. Don't want to spend bucks on sheets you're just going to immediately toss? I've found that recyclable brown napkins work even better, and are free of the "ew, gross!" factor of the toilet cover films of popular Internet lore.

    blush

    Chiseled cheeks at Ralph Lauren Spring 2011. Photo: Paul Morigi/WireImage.com

    Bronze to define, not contour. Chiseled cheeks at Ralph Lauren set the tone for a season that is big on bronzer. Instead of just hitting the usual spots below the cheekbones and around the temples in a 'C' shape, also sweeping bronzer over the décolleté and shoulders will make it look less like you're wearing makeup, and more like you've been touched by the sun. "Adding bronzer to the body marries the whole look together, and makes the overall look appear far more natural," says McGrath.

    Now that you're all set to go glam, here are ten quick and cheap fixes for your biggest summer skin hassles.

    Like things easy? Watch the video below for ways to simplify your summer makeup routine.



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