Stylelist

Marchesa Fall 2011 Fashion Week Review

Posted by Lauren Goodman on Feb 17th 2011 2:30PM

Henry S Dziekan, Getty Images

DESIGNERS: Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig for Marchesa

INSPIRATION: Miss Havisham

WHO WAS THERE: Irina Lazareanu, Vanessa Hudgens, Eve, Ashanti, Michelle Trachtenberg, Olivia Palermo, Petra Nemcova and Tinsley Mortimer

TOP LOOKS: Porcelain tulle bateau-neck dress, with shoulder flares spilling onto the floor; blush tulle column with flared ruffle skirt and shoulder appliqué; embroidered cream strapless cocktail wedding dress with high tulle headpiece; black lace corset dress with embroidered tulle skirt and black capelet

ACCESSORIES: Christian Louboutin netted ankle-strap pumps that were so high the models were nearly fainting. (Which suited the Victorian theme.) Metal jewelry shaped into beds of dark-gray flowers by Miriam Haskell, wrapped around ears and wrists. Bags by Marchesa.

WHAT WE THOUGHT: The Dickensian inspiration extended to more than just the clothes. Languid girls as brides or widows, in black veils, elaborate lace dresses and pooled velvet skirts had a consumptive pallor and were being tended to with water and stabilizing hands. The only things missing were smelling salts and fainting couches. Was it a case of the vapors? More like precipitously high shoes (Louboutin loves a little S&M) and a close environment packed with celebrities with evening hair at 4 p.m., talking heads, hangers on, cameras and flashbulbs. Can we blame them?

Marchesa clothes are beyond-one's-imagination beautiful. Chapman and Craig can only top themselves, and they manage to do it every season. We loved this dramatic literary meditation: veils, puddles of fabric from fishtail hems, romantic goth-techno jewelry, little brides everywhere. There were shocks of crimson (to match the red carpet?), in an otherwise black, white and pastel collection. For Fall, we see that Miss Havisham's great expectations are finally met, not dashed at all.

Comments 0

3.1 Phillip Lim Fall 2011 Fashion Week Review

Posted by Lauren Goodman on Feb 17th 2011 1:00AM

ImaxTree

DESIGNER: 3.1 Phillip Lim

INSPIRATION: Gangs, specifically the yakuza and Latin varieties

WHO WAS THERE: Teenage songstress Sky Ferreira, who has been cruising around with Teen Vogue; Richard Chai; Salman Rushdie; pretty ladies Olivia Chantecaille and Jen Brill

TOP LOOKS: Herringbone tweed motorcycle jacket with black neoprene sleeves and cognac leather pants; moss wool anorak with black fur patch pockets and leather sleeves; black jumpsuit with long beaded gold sleeves; navy patent tunic under double-breasted gray cardigan, over white slim pants; crisp maxi-trench with fur belt; shamrock jacket over cobalt silk top and black-and-white color-block pants

ACCESSORIES: Lim has expanded his empire into eyewear, jewelry, bags and shoes, all of which were in full effect. Models were shod in heavy leather mules, ankle boots and sandals in black, tan and nude. Bags were big or small: clutches or oversize soft briefcase styles.

WHAT WE THOUGHT: Gang or no gang, we are not scared to wear these clothes. The largely menswear-inspired collection was an aggressive play in texture (loved the neoprene in the mix) and oversize proportion. Loose-fitting inverted-pleat pants were the dominant silhouettes with some flowy and wide print (tattoo inspired) dresses.

Outerwear was the real star, though, from a trench to anoraks to a baseball jacket. Colors were just-picked fresh and aptly named "shamrock" and "pear." The result? Highly desirable. This was a strong collection for Lim, who conveyed an appreciation of fearless mixing and technical wear.

Comments 0

Oscar de la Renta Fall 2011 Fashion Week Review

Posted by Lauren Goodman on Feb 17th 2011 12:10AM

Chris Moore, Catwalking / Getty Images | Slaven Vlasic, Getty Images | ImaxTree

DESIGNER: Oscar de la Renta

INSPIRATION: Uzbekistan meets Vegas meets "Dynasty"

WHO WAS THERE: Nary a VIP in sight, just VIEs (very important editors); Jay Fielden, representing in the front row for Town & Country, his new post

TOP LOOKS: "Gold bullion" embroidered jacket with red-fox skirt and hood; head-to-toe plum looks (in a mix of leather, wool and fur), followed by head-to-toe hunter-green varieties; gold brocade wide-leg pantsuit; bouclé jackets and feather miniskirts; charcoal Persian lamb and spiky fox coat; indigo burnout-velvet long-sleeve gown; chartreuse damask tunic and wide-leg pants topped with fox hat and stole; black-and-white crewel-work long shearling coat over strapless gray tulle gown

ACCESSORIES: Metal-dipped high heels that widened at the bottom; lace-up oxford two-tone booties and ankle-strap pumps (our favorites were in velvet); suede bow kitten heels; gobs of sparkly crystal baubles dripping from necks and ears

WHAT WE THOUGHT: This jaunt into opulence was a traveling sybarite's delight, studded with references to Persia, Morocco and India. But this was a Silk Road paved in gold -- literally, in some cases -- all in quintessential rich, glitzy de la Renta style. Mixing of textures has been a big story this Fashion Week, and the trend surfaced here with clashes of wool, tweed, embroidery, multiple kinds of fur, patchwork leather, chiffon, velvet, tulle, shearling, brocade, feathers, bugle beads, sequins... 'twas luxury overload.

Comments 0

J. Mendel Fall 2011 Fashion Week Review

Posted by Lauren Goodman on Feb 16th 2011 10:55AM

Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

DESIGNER: J. Mendel

INSPIRATION: Tribal body art and the intricate ironwork of architect Jean Prouvé

WHO WAS THERE: Mendel-lovers and PYTs, Dr. Lisa Airan, Mary Alice Stephenson, Lily Kwong, Zani Gugelmann, Julie Macklowe, jewelry designer Monique Pean, actress Paz de la Huerta, critic Suzy Menkes

TOP LOOKS: Black paneled peekaboo dress on silk tulle; intarsia coat of snow mink and stenciled Argentine fox; mauve quilted broadtail jacket over mauve satin gown; forest-green broadtail coat over turtleneck and silk genie pants; mauve embroidered silk mousseline dress on Arizona Muse

ACCESSORIES: For designer Gilles Mendel's first season making his own shoes, he created suede peep-toe embroidered booties with needle-thin heels, some of which extended into full quilted leggings. There were also silk tuxedo scarves with fringe to accent Mendel's many toppers and formalwear.

WHAT WE THOUGHT: This was a huge leap, or shall we say jeté, from Mendel's ballet-inspired seasons (which landed him a Vogue cover with Natalie Portman, incidentally). He went from light-as-air fabrics and colors to a darker (almost all black), heavier collection that took a menswear influence as its main focus. Three-quarter-length coats with strong shoulders were the dominant silhouette. These were worn over turtlenecks with tailored pants (sometimes genie-style) or three-quarter-length skirts and dresses with sweeping backs. The tribal influence meant quilted furs, and bugle-beaded tulle in tribal patterns. But executed on rich shaved pelts and the low netted sheer back of an evening jumpsuit, the effect was anything but primitive.

Comments 0

Jason Wu Fall 2011 Fashion Week Review

Posted by Lauren Goodman on Feb 11th 2011 6:20PM

Jemal Countess, Getty Images

DESIGNER: Jason Wu

INSPIRATION: Robert Polidori's photos from his book about the restoration of Versailles, specifically "the juxtaposition between the rough undersurface and the opulence of the decor." The result? "Baroque meets sportswear."

WHO: Three languid blondes named the Clarence girls, who are attending shows this week with Vogue. Big-name bloggers like Bryan Boy (in an Afro wig), Susie Bubble and Hanneli Mustaparta. Swan, Zani Gugelmann. Top editors and retailers, including Anna Wintour.

TOP LOOKS: Charcoal wool anorak with opaline crystal embroidery on the shoulders. Trio of ostrich feather and lace dresses. Black radzimir-silk sculpted dress with a white petticoat, cut like a ball gown, but above the knee. Gold lace paillette-embroidered long-sleeve gown.

ACCESSORIES: All from Wu's signature line. Heavy platform pumps with heels dipped in gold. Ivory and burgundy leather bags and clutches. Crystal embroidered clutches. Round sunglasses. Black lace headband veils. Filmy fishnets.

WHAT WE THOUGHT: Walking into the show, the first thing visible was an assemblage of cut-up antique gilt-framed mirrors, fashioned into an off-kilter runway. This reference to Versailles carried into the clothes (and gilted hair). Looks were restrained, polished and often heavily embellished. The palette was mostly black, white and nude, with pops of powdery brights like chartreuse, cherry pink, navy and gold. There was lots of lace, 15 kinds to be exact.

Wu carried forward several tropes from his pre-Fall collection, including black lace running down jacket sleeves, in an almost matador style. Buttoned-up collars were wrapped with black ribbon tied into bows. As for the stunners? They included ostrich feather minidresses and a knee-length skirt. Also striking was the embroidery -- whether in crystal or gold, the look felt rich and regal. Just like the inspiration itself.

Featured Videos